New old guy from New Zealand.

[DEAD]

DEAD is short for Dreadnought Engineering And Design (my home workshop/business).
Really keen to learn new stuff everyday.
Have had a crazy passion for cars/motors for over 40 yrs and have been lucky to have owned and built some fun cars.
Have done the carburetor and distributor thing...want to do ECU and FI now. I can make everything else strong enough...
I alway loved the Soarer (when it first appeared) yes I am that old. It was a slick car that really went well and was also reliable!
My other love has always been early Ford coupes. My current project car is a 1938 Standard ford coupe. I have a low mileage 1991 Soarer UZZ30 I bought many years ago as a donor car. I also have just bought another 1UZFE engine and trans (1991) for spares/mockup etc.
Progress has been slow but steady over many years as I work on the sheet metal and by parts as the funds allow.
Recently the project has fought its way to the top of the pile and progress is a lot better.

Basic idea for stage one of the mechanical build is as follows:
1UZFE (1991)
M122 Eaton (Cadillac with intercooler and electric throttle body). factory high boost!
Bosch intercooler pump front mount radiator yet to be sized.
Tremec TKO 600 (not sure on clutch yet) hydraulic throw out bearing.
Separate LS truck coils triggered with a Link ECU
Currie 9inch diff 4.11 gears with trutrac and 31 spline axles.
Supra TT front discs/calipers (sumotomo)
Running 17 x 8 rear rims and 17 x 7 fronts

Plan to start pretty mild but am building everything strong to take more boost at a later date if needed!!

Biggest challenge will be rear tire width...might have some traction problems!

Keen to learn from you guys.

Mike.

 

[cribbj]

Welcome Mike, always good to see new projects being launched. Plenty of good technical information, assistance & experience on here. (Most of us have broken lots of stuff )

 

[Zuffen]

Welcome and interesting project.

About the only thing I would change is the 9"diff.

As you will know they are power hungry, expensive and heavy.

If it was my build I'd go for a lighter diff that was up to the task, you're not looking at stupid torque like a big block so even a Hi-Lux diff would survive or a lighter Yank item as the vehicle will be relatively light.

Throwing it out there as it may save you money and weight that can transform into performance.

Should also mention Nissan Patrol diff. Available in 4.11:1 and cheap as and tough as a 9". Still sucks power and weighs about the same but does come with nice ventilated discs.

 

[DEAD]

Thanks for you replies guys.

As with all designs there are many options to weigh up. The plan some time ago was to go with the complete rear end from the Soarer.

In the end thou it came down strength. I tend to be quite hard on my cars and plan to use it at the strip as well. I have found out the hard way in the past that big diameter slicks with low diff gears launching hard with VHT on the track gives the diff and axles a hard time. I priced up a strong LSD centre to suit the toyota rear and found it very expensive.Was not sure if the toyota rear would handle the abuse of manual launchs on the strip. Certainly the weight of a nine inch is significant. Would be interesting to know the weight of a complete soarer rear end with arms subframe etc (although much is unsprung).

Am very keen to keep weight down as much as possible (aiming for 1400kg or less).

 

[Zuffen]

If you're trying to keep weight down both the 9"and Patrol are a last resort.

Have you thought about a spool for the Toyota axle?

Another option is to get an ARB airlocker for the diff and lock the diff when racing and leave it open when on the street.

I've been meaning to do just that with my LS3 power car but just never got around to it as the diff centre weighs 50kg and I'm not Superman so lifting it laying on your back isn't easy.

 

[DEAD]

Sorry guys just trying to figure the best way to post an image...!! Mock up with spare engine and SC. Looks promising.

 

[Zuffen]

Will you be making a custom manifold for it or will it work on one of the many blower manifolds available.

 

[DEAD]

I will fabricate a scratch built manifold. Will need to remove water cross overs with plumbed individual fittings. The Blower has its own injector mounting and can use the high flow fuel rail and stock injectors (probably) Stock Caddy engine supports more HP than I will likely make. Injector location will be a little higher than I would have liked but still quite good. Have yet to decide on steel or Aluminium for the manifold. I have the ability to do both. Will probably go steel as I have more confidence that way and can go a bit thinner wall and easier to form tube ends to weird shapes to fit inside flanges. I will probably make the same way I make headers with the tubes inside the flanges. Tig weld the insides and die grind to shape. Then one root run on the outside followed by a capping run of silicon bronze. Fun times. I need to start a build thread as this is probably not the place for this discussion...Sorry.

 

[Zuffen]

Yes please to a build thread.

Lots of photos too. I tend to read pictures and look at words!