Hello all. Ive been searching around this forum and other places for the past few weeks looking for info that I wanted, but couldnt really find alot of definate answers. Im looking to swap a 1uz-fe engine into my 2002 Honda S2000. I will be staying N/A, but looking for information or vendors which supply aftermarket parts. (cams, headers,etc..). Secondly, Im trying to figure out which would be the "best" engine to go with. I would ideally like to purchase a '02+ 3uz engine, so that I could keep my swap "legal", but would like to get some info on the 3uz computer. Is the stock computer tunable, or is there any good piggyback systems that will work well with serious modifications like cams or ITBs. Does the factory ECU care what trans is behind the engine, because I will be putting a manual trans in. I know a full standalone would be best, but as I said if I can still pass emissions/inspection with the OBD2 port I would be thrilled. Also, is there a vendor that can supply/build me a 1uz/2uz at a fair price? Sorry for all the questions but any help is appreciated!
New guy with lots of questions.
- Thread starter Rxmfn7
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Thanks for the opinion, but I dont want to do that. The stock F20C is a pretty capable engine when going FI, but I want something different and to stay N/A. I have experience with swaps before, and I think the DOHC toyota engine will make a great compliment to the car. Just looking for some solid answers on questions above.
Well if your staying N/A then the newer the 1uz-fe motor the better... Depends on your budget and finds of course...
Cams - Kelford cams is the only supplier I know of..Kelfordcams.com if I am not mistaken... Based in New Zealand so you will pay for shipping...
Headers - S&SHeaders.com (USA), Texheaders (AUSSIE), and the new company that took over EKtuning.com forgot the name.. (USA)...
If your swapping a 1uz-fe into Honda S2000, a stand alone ECU may be your best choice for instrument integration, etc.. Maybe SM6 or SM7 will work though... Not to sure on this one....
Any other questions?
Cams - Kelford cams is the only supplier I know of..Kelfordcams.com if I am not mistaken... Based in New Zealand so you will pay for shipping...
Headers - S&SHeaders.com (USA), Texheaders (AUSSIE), and the new company that took over EKtuning.com forgot the name.. (USA)...
If your swapping a 1uz-fe into Honda S2000, a stand alone ECU may be your best choice for instrument integration, etc.. Maybe SM6 or SM7 will work though... Not to sure on this one....
Any other questions?
rx7 s1 1uz
New Member
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8626&page=4&highlight=cheap+headers this is a group buy on headers $300 U.S including shipping, you can get cams from kilford cams or the other options is this its a lot cheaper http://www.lextreme.com/Lexus-Toyota-cams.html.
as for some ITB's depending how much you wont to spend here is something you maybe interested in http://a1turbos.co.nz/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=1QT
as for some ITB's depending how much you wont to spend here is something you maybe interested in http://a1turbos.co.nz/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=1QT
A 2JZ motor would be your worst option.. Why because it's bank, N/A it's gutless and useless, and even when boosted it will lack in comparison out of the blocks unlike an 1uz-fe motor... Since your swapping this into a Honda the weight comparison would favor the alluminum block 1uz-fe motor as well if I am not mistaken......
The 2JZ is an incredible motor but just not for your swap needs and goals....
Good deal on that group header buy for $300... WOW go Lextreme!!!
The 2JZ is an incredible motor but just not for your swap needs and goals....
Good deal on that group header buy for $300... WOW go Lextreme!!!
Have you considered LS1 motor for your swap?...That's what I would do...It would be a rediculous motor in a Honda S2000 as those motors are relatively light in weight like the 1uz's..and comparable in size also..and can easily be mod'd to make 400whp N/A...
I was thinking if your going to dump all that cash on cams, headers and ITB's in addition to cost of a newer 1uz-fe motor it may just cost the same for a used LS1 motor if you shop around...
Even without any additional mods the LS1 motor should out perform any 1uz-fe with cams, headers, and ITB's.. Also the after market parts for the LS1 motors are plentiful, cheaper and easy to get...
Longevity and reliability still goes in favor of the 1uz-fe motors though....
Something extra to think about....
I was thinking if your going to dump all that cash on cams, headers and ITB's in addition to cost of a newer 1uz-fe motor it may just cost the same for a used LS1 motor if you shop around...
Even without any additional mods the LS1 motor should out perform any 1uz-fe with cams, headers, and ITB's.. Also the after market parts for the LS1 motors are plentiful, cheaper and easy to get...
Longevity and reliability still goes in favor of the 1uz-fe motors though....
Something extra to think about....
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XR8tt
Active Member
A 20B engine?? Why not Dart block Honda engine ??
Big bore and stroke it ???
http://www.dartheads.com/products/blocks/honda-blocks/honda-b-series-blocks.html
Big bore and stroke it ???
http://www.dartheads.com/products/blocks/honda-blocks/honda-b-series-blocks.html
OK guys..
I dont want a long cast iron block into my car. Power is of concern of course, but not at the expense of non-essential added weight. Im not shooting for a 600WHP car here, and even if I was I think there are better options.
I'm very familiar with the LSx engines. My last car was a 94 FD Rx-7 swapped with LS1/T56. (Ill attach a picture below) I understand the Hp/dollar of the LS engines is nearly unbeatable, and the aftermarket is second to none, but I just want to play with something different and I want to stick with the DOHC toyota engine for my next project.
I want to stay N/A, and its very expensive to build a N/A 20B engine to make good power. It is possible, and it is a project I have planned and want to do, but it will be in another FD Rx-7. I dont want a dart block honda engine.
Guys, I have a good bit of experience with swap cars and most engines. Ive been playing with rotaries and Rx-7s since I was 16, have built swapped civic all the way up to big block muscle cars. I just feel a built toyota 1uz/3uz would be a good "fit" for what I want to do with this car, so please stop just suggesting other swaps that you would do. Just here looking for more info on the toyota engines. Thanks for that A1Turbos link, very helpful.
I dont want a long cast iron block into my car. Power is of concern of course, but not at the expense of non-essential added weight. Im not shooting for a 600WHP car here, and even if I was I think there are better options.
I'm very familiar with the LSx engines. My last car was a 94 FD Rx-7 swapped with LS1/T56. (Ill attach a picture below) I understand the Hp/dollar of the LS engines is nearly unbeatable, and the aftermarket is second to none, but I just want to play with something different and I want to stick with the DOHC toyota engine for my next project.
I want to stay N/A, and its very expensive to build a N/A 20B engine to make good power. It is possible, and it is a project I have planned and want to do, but it will be in another FD Rx-7. I dont want a dart block honda engine.
Guys, I have a good bit of experience with swap cars and most engines. Ive been playing with rotaries and Rx-7s since I was 16, have built swapped civic all the way up to big block muscle cars. I just feel a built toyota 1uz/3uz would be a good "fit" for what I want to do with this car, so please stop just suggesting other swaps that you would do. Just here looking for more info on the toyota engines. Thanks for that A1Turbos link, very helpful.
XR8tt
Active Member
Well you know the fabrication and costs then...
With an 1UZ you'll require better rods and pistons, Kelford cams,
http://www.camshaftshop.com/camshafts/view/27/toyota-camshaft/#anchor_884
and some head porting.. With obvious things like headers, good exhaust...
The reason I bought up the dart block ? Was to use max bore and stroke, I'v seen these engines with quite big capacity...But yea nothing like a "GOOD V8" !!
With an 1UZ you'll require better rods and pistons, Kelford cams,
http://www.camshaftshop.com/camshafts/view/27/toyota-camshaft/#anchor_884
and some head porting.. With obvious things like headers, good exhaust...
The reason I bought up the dart block ? Was to use max bore and stroke, I'v seen these engines with quite big capacity...But yea nothing like a "GOOD V8" !!
there are some turboed 1UZ FD RX7 track cars over here in NZ - one pair of brothers have a turbo FD and the other brother has the LS1.
A couple of questions on the s2000. Have you measured the engine bay? They have big wide gaurds which make the engine bay look narrow -
The last s2000 motor I saw was fitted to a AE86 corolla levin and I think the sump was at the front (may be wrong here) so a front sump LS motor should be ok. The S2000 motor is quite tall so the height of the 1Uz should not be too much of a problem. As far as the factory ecu is concerned this might be your biggest problem making it legal to OBD2 standards. On some factory ECU it will need to see the security signals and as It does run the trans may fault code the speed sensors , trans controls etc. Plenty of aftermarket stuff for them though and manual box is no issue. Some honda running gear goes anticlockwise but I think S2000 Diffs are normal - Is this correct? Cheers
A couple of questions on the s2000. Have you measured the engine bay? They have big wide gaurds which make the engine bay look narrow -
The last s2000 motor I saw was fitted to a AE86 corolla levin and I think the sump was at the front (may be wrong here) so a front sump LS motor should be ok. The S2000 motor is quite tall so the height of the 1Uz should not be too much of a problem. As far as the factory ecu is concerned this might be your biggest problem making it legal to OBD2 standards. On some factory ECU it will need to see the security signals and as It does run the trans may fault code the speed sensors , trans controls etc. Plenty of aftermarket stuff for them though and manual box is no issue. Some honda running gear goes anticlockwise but I think S2000 Diffs are normal - Is this correct? Cheers
Ive taken some rough measurements and it seems the IUZ engine should fit without issue. As far as your question about the LS engines fitting, I have personally seen one in an S2000 bay, they fit no problem. I figured the lexus ECUs would have a bunch of security crap I would have to figure a way around, probably just end up using a standalone. The S2k engine spins opposite of other honda engines, so yes its the "right" way.
Jake Breyck
New Member
personally i think a 1uz or 3uz s2k would rock. even more so with some cams, itbs, headers. ect.
If the plan is always na, i would get a 3uz to start, yes the 1uz is a little beefer but the 3uz is by no means weak.
although have you thought about the diff? s2k diffs are not really known for there power holding.
If the plan is always na, i would get a 3uz to start, yes the 1uz is a little beefer but the 3uz is by no means weak.
although have you thought about the diff? s2k diffs are not really known for there power holding.
You can "upgrade" the diff to a nissan R200 unit. Inlinepro makes a kit I can just order and bolt-in. Ive never thought of those diffs as particularly strong, but there are guys running 10sec 1/4miles on them with upgraded axles with no issue, so they should take whatever I can throw at it with a N/A 1UZ.
If I decide to saw screw emissions and OBD2 requirements , is there really any reason to chose a 3UZ over a 1uZ? I understand they have a little more displacement which is always good, but once you start modifying with cams, itbs, etc.. is there really a noticeable difference? I can pick up a decent milage 1UZ for less than $1000 but it seems I would be paying at least 3x that for a 3UZ. Im not really pinching pennies and I will spend money where needed, but just wondering if there really is a "strong point" of the 3UZ compared to the 1UZ.
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