new guy here with some questions.

[J. Sharer]

ok guys here is what im looking for.. i've been doing some lurking and im coming to the conclusion that im better off sticking with my 4cylinder s/c then going with the 1uzfe.

I'm hoping for hp in the ball park of 300whp. my supercharged ka24de is making 250whp. on 10psi from an eaton m62.

My friend dave from R&D automotive has a 1uzfe turboed toyota pickup. with z32 rear suspension, caged, ect drift truck. making 420+whp iirc.

My fisrt impression was it would be easy to kit 300whp on this motor with basics like headers, exhaust, and intake. but after looking around here it seems like most people are only making around 230whp with these mods. that seems very pathetic to me and i hope im just reading this wrong. I can probably peice this swap together for around 2k but I dont want to jump into this with out any proof that i can make more power then where im at now.

also this is a drift car so weight it a major thing. another reason why the 1uzfe looked like a great v8 for the job but if i can make the same power on my motor then why spend 2k so i can have the same power. and the v8 sound..

so basically im wondering what mods im going to have to do to reach the 300whp mod with out spending tons of money.

 

[a.Lpha]

I am by no means an expert, but I have an older LS400 that puts just under 300HP to the road with an exhaust, intakes and new injectors. I don't know where you got 230, but the 91 1UZ is rated at 250, not to mention there are countless builds on this forum where they make this v8 into a serious single digit drag car.

 

[J. Sharer]

thanks for saying that.. it makes me feel like there is a little more hope for this motor going in my s13. but according to a couple youtube vids and post on here it seems like bone stock for a 1st gen 1uzfe you can only expect about 220whp. i was reading where some guy did a swap and has headers exhaust and intake and made like 279whp on a dynojet which is notorious for reading high and everybody kept saying that there was no way.

Does anybody have any proof that 300whp or in that ballpark is easily do-able with just (i hate this term) "bolt ons"?

 

[stevechumo]

The first thing is not all dynos are the same. You may see 245 rwhp on 1 dyno, but you may see less than 200 rwhp on another dyno. The stock pre-95 1uz has 250 bhp (crank hp), but it's typically dynoed at 180 rwhp due to an average of 28% loss of auto tranny & drivetrain. With most people putting a S/C M90 on it, it's typically dynoed at 260 rwhp with 6 psi, which is 80 rwhp gained. I'm running 15 psi and is about the about 389 rwhp on the auto tranny. Some others made 450 rwhp with 17 psi on manual tranny. I don't think that's pathetic at all.

If you race your 250 whp ka24de with a 250 rwhp 1uZ, the 1uz will win due to its massive torques. You're looking at somewhere 270 rwtq from the 1uz comparing to 200 rwtq of ka24de.

It's very....impossible with bolt-ons to make 300 rwhp with 1uz. 300 bhp is possible, however. Again, dyno numbers are only 1 of the factors telling how powerful a car is.

 

[J. Sharer]

ok so i got another question.... if i do this swap.. and im need some more power... which is probably gonna come really soon. how much power can i see out of a M112 sitting on top of this thing. I'll be fabbing my pwn intake mani. And going to do some more research on having an intercooler on it. (since my ka supercharged has no possible way to have an intercooler unless you remote mount the S/C) I'm sorry if i sound like a nood. I'm just not to familiar with the motor. I'm trying to keep this on a budget and to be honest i would like to keep it stock bottom end. for the main reason of if it blows.. i can go yank another one out of a junkyard. (i know it sounds bad. but when you have drift competitions within 2 weeks of each other and work a full time job, its hard to build a motor in that time)

but like i said.. idk the limits on this motor. and to be honest i would be happy with 250whp at first i would just like to be able to do a simple S/C setup and push high 300s or so.

 

[cribbj]

Don't forget that it takes power to run the supercharger. You'll lose 15-20% driving it, depending on its efficiency. We calculated that my twinscrew (the most efficient type of PD supercharger) was consuming between 60-80 HP at high boost.

Steve Chumo's installation is turbo'd, so he's not seeing these losses, and he'll report a higher top end HP figure than the same motor under supercharger boost. (That's not to say turbo's are lossless - they have higher exhaust backpressures, which contributes to pumping losses.)

What a supercharger delivers is a fat torque curve and more predictable power.

 

[J. Sharer]

Don't forget that it takes power to run the supercharger. You'll lose 15-20% driving it, depending on its efficiency. We calculated that my twinscrew (the most efficient type of PD supercharger) was consuming between 60-80 HP at high boost.

Steve Chumo's installation is turbo'd, so he's not seeing these losses, and he'll report a higher top end HP figure than the same motor under supercharger boost. (That's not to say turbo's are lossless - they have higher exhaust backpressures, which contributes to pumping losses.)

What a supercharger delivers is a fat torque curve and more predictable power.

I understand this.. the reason i want it to be supercharged is the same reason i supercharged my 2.4l 4cylinder. When im drifting and lift off the throttle for any given reason the power is there when i come right back on the throttle. i also know that im going to have this much boost at this many rpms.. it makes the car much more predictable and i love it.

I'm just hoping in order to run a S/C on these motors I dont have to tear into the bottom end. I definitely can't afford to build a bottom end.

I would most likely get a 1st gen 1uz, which from what i hear comes with "forged rods" but i've also heard different. but with a m112 on factory pulley i hope that could put me in the high 300whp range. and also... do these ecms have any daughterboard setups or is standalone my only option?

 

[cribbj]

I don't recall if anyone has put a daughterboard in the ECU as has been done with the Supra ECU, but if you're doing a swap into a different make of chassis, you're probably better off with a standalone.

If you're on a tight budget, some here have had luck with the MegaSquirt, and if you're willing to go a few $$$ more, the 1st gen AEM for the Supra can be made PnP with the SC400's harness.

All the 1UZ's have powder forged rods, but the pre '95's are beefier. Powder forging lets the OEM have a set of rods that are "just" strong enough for their intended purpose, and have very predictable failure modes. Unfortunately, they're not good enough for hotrodders....