MY 1uzfe ITB's result
- Thread starter DenZel
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
from a n/a UZ? it's possible but we know from experience it takes a pretty special UZ to do that n/a...details?
You make it sound easy
I know someone who'd be very interested to chat about oil control as that cost him a very expensive engine and is still giving him grief.
Sounds like a serious effort.
365whp in what chassis and transmission?
What RPM?
Torque and peak?
Stock stroke?
Also to get the tq spot on the operator needs to make sure that the dyno speed is identical to the tyre speed. If the speedo is out, this calc will be out, and thus the tq will be out. I don't know how many dyno operators get the speed 100%, probably not many. Most would assume the speedo is accurate and tune it to that (which is a fair assumption).
At least thats my understanding of how it works.
Personally I ignore the tq output on a chassis/hub dyno, as there are too many factors in calculating it to get a real reading.
Jake Breyck
New Member
what was the torque?
drifty325i
New Member
Mine made 279rwhp and it has the standard intake. Still i bet yours sounds amazing!!
laine etwell
New Member
Ican beat both of you with 365 rwhp
JustenGT8
New Member
from a n/a UZ? it's possible but we know from experience it takes a pretty special UZ to do that n/a...details?
laine etwell
New Member
well i wouldnt go as far as saying its special, but to get 365 rwhp i have bored and sleeved it to 91.8 mm fully balanced the crank and rods, dry sumped with crank scrapper 13:1 compession, ported heads full race valve springs, resonable size cams individual throttle setup ,link computer and some good exhausts.
I am currently on the quest for more power so i have just brought some 6 inch H beem rods,higher comp pistons , had a guy design me some new billet cams with 410 lift,still need to find a shim under bucket setup ,and i will get the crank stroked by 1mm and hoping for a 70 hp gain
I am currently on the quest for more power so i have just brought some 6 inch H beem rods,higher comp pistons , had a guy design me some new billet cams with 410 lift,still need to find a shim under bucket setup ,and i will get the crank stroked by 1mm and hoping for a 70 hp gain
JustenGT8
New Member
You make it sound easy
I know someone who'd be very interested to chat about oil control as that cost him a very expensive engine and is still giving him grief.laine etwell
New Member
My oil system is very basic, i have stil retained the original pressure pump and modifyied the pick up to the side of the sump for the oil tank to feed, and im using a 2 stage scavenge pump to return back to the tank,However we did have to increase spring pressure on the relief to increase the oil pressure to handle the revs.the only other thing i could do is block off the breathers to create more vacumm which could give it a slight increase in power
Jake Breyck
New Member
I was thinking about doing a dry sump setup that way. looks like it might not have been a bad idea. so can you tell us more about the cams, could more then one set be made and at what cost and whats the duration?
Sounds like a serious effort.
365whp in what chassis and transmission?
What RPM?
Torque and peak?
Stock stroke?
Denzel, are your ITB's mounted direct to head, or is there a manifold on each bank, or ???
I noticed your power curve has that same "knee" in it at 5200-5400 RPM that many UZ's have when using the stock lower manifold. I was surprised to see it on an ITB setup. I'm sure Justen noticed it too, and will comment.
Probably as you say, you just need some cams now.....
I noticed your power curve has that same "knee" in it at 5200-5400 RPM that many UZ's have when using the stock lower manifold. I was surprised to see it on an ITB setup. I'm sure Justen noticed it too, and will comment.
Probably as you say, you just need some cams now.....
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JustenGT8
New Member
My guess is on stock lower manifold. It's stretched peak hp out a bit as more like 5750 rather than 5300 but if stock lower manifold then pretty much as expected. Damo (V8 Soarer) had the same result, even with cams and ported heads.
Looks like i really do need to bite the bullet and port my lower manifold for the ITBs
Looks like i really do need to bite the bullet and port my lower manifold for the ITBs
Jake Breyck
New Member
Not to be a downer but it looks like it only makes about 230tq, my stock motor made 249tq wile running super rich. seems like your a bit down on power. unless the two dynos really read that far off or your at 20,000ft.
Peewee
New Member
Different brands of dyno do calculate tq differently, especially comparing US ones to Aus ones. Not sure why, but even stock for stock US and Aus can read a good 10% differently.
Also to get the tq spot on the operator needs to make sure that the dyno speed is identical to the tyre speed. If the speedo is out, this calc will be out, and thus the tq will be out. I don't know how many dyno operators get the speed 100%, probably not many. Most would assume the speedo is accurate and tune it to that (which is a fair assumption).
At least thats my understanding of how it works.
Personally I ignore the tq output on a chassis/hub dyno, as there are too many factors in calculating it to get a real reading.
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