making my order soon

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

i20rider

New Member
I just wona make sure I'm gona get everything I need

I have a 2uz fe on bottle. I don't plan on having a 10second truck or anything. But I'm trying to. Make sure it will hold up.

The forged H beam rods. For sure.
And the cam for a little extra umf

I'm gona be workin with $4000. But that covers install and cost of the engin pull

Am I missing anything.
 
For any shot of n20 on the 2uz you will need the rods at minimum and if you want it to take more than a 100 shot I would recommend these as well:

-forged pistons
-ARP Main, rod and head studs
-Cometic HG's (torqued to 75 ft/lb and re-torqued after break in)
-Tune

The UZ manifold has a lot of roon underneath and it should make a direct port setup pretty easy to install. You could tap all 8 runners from underneath and run the lines along the bellhousing for a super stealth install.

2uz has a very strong block so its just the pesky rods and pistons that need to hold together.
 
Ok. Well right now I'm spraying it but eventualy I'm gona go with the turbo down the line. Its the none vvti

Will the came work with spray and later if I do the turbo
 
They should both work. Only difference is tune. The stock system will support 8psi w/o any tuning but over that it starts to get expensive. You can save some cheesae and try a piggyback but most of these wont allow for timing adjustment, just fuel.

Forum member Justin_gt8 took a completely early year 1uz and had it pushing 500whp with just 2x turbos and a good tune but this was the bulletproof 1990-1994 uz.

Adding spray to an already turbo'd setup might pose some stress issues but these can all be addressed.

BTW, if you can pull your own motor you'll instantly save a good $500 per pull so $1000 for pull/install.
 
They should both work. Only difference is tune. The stock system will support 8psi w/o any tuning but over that it starts to get expensive. You can save some cheesae and try a piggyback but most of these wont allow for timing adjustment, just fuel.

Forum member Justin_gt8 took a completely early year 1uz and had it pushing 500whp with just 2x turbos and a good tune but this was the bulletproof 1990-1994 uz.

Adding spray to an already turbo'd setup might pose some stress issues but these can all be addressed.

BTW, if you can pull your own motor you'll instantly save a good $500 per pull so $1000 for pull/install.



Im using the AEM Fic 8 it allows for Timing Retard but no advance, and Fuel control of 100% +/-, I Ran 12 PSI till i blew my HG lol but very user freindly piggyback, it even helps you start a base map and when you upgrade injectors it will auto compensate (feature)... Im hoping to be boosting somewhere around 18psi on the 10mm ARP head studs and MLS, can i afford to throw in a 50shot??
 
cool cool. Well I have the unichip pigyback. And they can have a normall tune. And I can switch maps for when I'm on bottle. So we will se what happens. Will I have it pulled I'm going to yhave the heads ported&polished. Its gona be done. By toyota performance in tucsan az. They seem to know there way around a yota.
 
I wanted to port my heads and get cams if possible.. im trying to sell my ATV lol I figured its the perfect time since the heads are coming off anyways.. how much do they charge?
 
ooh and yea the fic let's u switch maps as u please.. I like it cause it brings a built-in map sensor nd reads the EUGO AFR
 
At 18psi + n2o, i'd make sure I had forged rods/pistons, 7/16th arp head stud re-tap, 4 bolt main conversion, cometic HG's torqued multiple times during break in, and both intercooler and meth inj.

Justin_gt8 is the man to ask, he has run these engines at 600bhp over the course of several years w/o any issues (early 1UZ). He swears by the meth/intercooler combos.
 
You should be fine with stock with the exception to the rods. You WILL need rods to hold a 125 shot. All toyota v8 rods are very weak w/ exception to 1990-1994 1uz. You can swap early rods onto your 2uz crank, or you can run chevy forged H-beam rods. Aside from that the 2uz has the 2uz has the strongest block of the series with a much better flowing head/intake manifold.

Here's how the toyota rods stack up:

Lexus-Toyota-Rods.jpg
 
Stock UZ pistons are cast hypereutectic and can take some abuse. Also, toyota rings are very durable too. I would say a 150 shot at most but who knows? And on top of that if your 2UZ is VVti, you will have oil squirters under each piston and these help cool more than the non vvti. Early UZ's can take 600bhp+ in stock form with stock pistons/rings etc. It just comes down to your tune and how much of a safety net you add in. Im not experienced with n20 personally but I would think to jet your nozzles to supplement extra fuel to keep the AFR low.
 
I wanted to port my heads and get cams if possible.. im trying to sell my ATV lol I figured its the perfect time since the heads are coming off anyways.. how much do they charge?

There are a few options for cams. Lextreme makes regrinds in a few diff profiles and they run $750 if memory serves. Gotta remember our engines have 4 cams to play with so it adds up.

The most expensive part of getting the cams installed is the lash difference. You will need to re-shim 32 valves and toyota charges $12.50 per shim so thats $400/set. You can get around this by upgrading to oversize intake/exhaust valves. They come with longer stems and these can be cut to fit instead of playing with shims. Also, when upgrading cams, you will also need stiffer valve springs to suit.
 
Cool cool. Right now I'm running a 13.9. With my setup In 4wd no tune. The shop is putting in new springs water pump and other goodies just to make sure but they are gona clean up the heads and manifold. Hbeam rods and the cames. Then with a good tune. What in your profesianal opinion should I expect from these changes
 
I havent seen results for the cams on 2uz but they should wake the engine up. Toyota cam profiles have next to zero overlap, meaning they suck for making hp. Probably a good 50bhp on a stock engine? Ask Lextreme, he has some resuslts on cams before/after. Also, look into Kelford cams out in AU, they are billet cams and can be made for any profile you want but cost a bit more.


13.9 is pretty dang quick for a truck, im sure you'll crack into the 12's with the cams and some more spray.
 
Guys will the 2UZ heads bolt on to my 1UZ with the 1UZ intake? and do they flow any better?? i meen i figured they would since theyre designed for a larger capacity engine
 
Heads flow bette yes, but they wont bolt on w/o modifiction. Frankly its been discussed a few times but nobody has actually tried it. The problem is the vvti actuators, they need an a single oil feed from the block, to each head. The non-vvti does not have these ports in its block to maake it work.


I think it might be possible to block the passages off the heads and run it w/o the vvti, and then you'd get the increased head flow. Also, you wont be able to use the old 1uz intake with the new heads but who cares, the vvti manifold flows much more. Are you planning a tune or oem ecu?


I have built a 2uz "hybrid" with a 2uz block, crank and modified pistons with everything else 1uz. It worked fine but I had to mill the stock "rounded dome" 2uz pistons down to accept the non curved 1uz heads. Its doable
 


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