hi guys,
Had the opportunity to pick up an ISF engine for cheap. There is enough info to tell you but there is also a lot on the net. Google is your friend. However some info is not easily available and I hope I can tell you some on here:
The engine is very nice to sleep on:
Pretty easy to disassemble. No real special tools needed. Headbolts are same socket as 2jz-gte (multipoint allen or torx. 12 points or so).
Timing pattern is 36-2 on the crank and 3 on the cams. all four cams have a 3 on them (I think equally spaced). So the 3UZ as well as the 2jz vvti timing pattern is pretty much what you need.
The crank unit is not on the front of the engine but it's at the flywheel (starter gear)
Here you can see the camshafts:
The 2UR crankshaft has less counter weights than the 3UZ. Pay some good attention to the next picture. Left is the UR crankshaft, right is the UZ crankshaft.
The main bearings have same journal diameter. The rod journals are 1mm bigger in diameter. However, they are a LOT smaller in width.
I tried the UZ crank in the UR casing but it touches almost everything. So they are not really interchangable (in whatever case you would assume).
The nose of the UZ is 36mm for the front pulley. The UR has a 31mm nose. It doesnt look as beefy as the UZ crankshaft.
The UR rods are the same shitty powder pressed material as the UZ rods. They are useless for high horsepower. Here is where I put the in the vice:
And here is how they break.
The UR rods have 1mm bigger big-end. They are 2mm shorter than the UZ rods (centre to centre).
The block is open deck:
It is a 6 bolt mains design (4 main bolts and 2 side bolts). The inner main bolts are bigger (socket 14) and than the outers (socket 12). The engine has squirters
Had the opportunity to pick up an ISF engine for cheap. There is enough info to tell you but there is also a lot on the net. Google is your friend. However some info is not easily available and I hope I can tell you some on here:
The engine is very nice to sleep on:
Pretty easy to disassemble. No real special tools needed. Headbolts are same socket as 2jz-gte (multipoint allen or torx. 12 points or so).
Timing pattern is 36-2 on the crank and 3 on the cams. all four cams have a 3 on them (I think equally spaced). So the 3UZ as well as the 2jz vvti timing pattern is pretty much what you need.
The crank unit is not on the front of the engine but it's at the flywheel (starter gear)
Here you can see the camshafts:
The 2UR crankshaft has less counter weights than the 3UZ. Pay some good attention to the next picture. Left is the UR crankshaft, right is the UZ crankshaft.
The main bearings have same journal diameter. The rod journals are 1mm bigger in diameter. However, they are a LOT smaller in width.
I tried the UZ crank in the UR casing but it touches almost everything. So they are not really interchangable (in whatever case you would assume).
The nose of the UZ is 36mm for the front pulley. The UR has a 31mm nose. It doesnt look as beefy as the UZ crankshaft.
The UR rods are the same shitty powder pressed material as the UZ rods. They are useless for high horsepower. Here is where I put the in the vice:
And here is how they break.
The UR rods have 1mm bigger big-end. They are 2mm shorter than the UZ rods (centre to centre).
The block is open deck:
It is a 6 bolt mains design (4 main bolts and 2 side bolts). The inner main bolts are bigger (socket 14) and than the outers (socket 12). The engine has squirters
