Hydraulic Fan

[jibby]

Hey can anyone of you guys tell me the best way to bypass or disable the hydraulic fan oil driven pump? Loop and bridge the in and out lines to the hydraulic pump or disable and plug? I have my car apart now and trying to figure out what to do with this pump. If looped does the fan oil still need to travel thru that little radiator cooler under the battery or can all that crap be removed. This is for an 1992 sc400.... Anyone?

 

[ozvenom]

hydralic pump.

The pump can be by passed by taking it off and removing the internal pressure relief valve then filling the pump up with fluid then pluging the inlet and out let make sure you leave a bit of air in side to allow for expansion when it is hot.
alternativley you could get a crown fan hub and install that thay are all interchangeable.
the hydralicfan maybe reversable by reversing the in and out on the fan then mount it on the front .
I still prefer electric fans a big 16" fan is the go you can get them cheap as aircond auxilly units for under $ 150au which is a lot cheaper than daviescraig fan at $300 + . to control the fan you can get screw in fan switchs of varing on and off temps.

Regards oz

 

[jibby]

Ok, I read that when the pump is gutted it heats up and then can leak or damage the bearings, is this true? Did you perform this task on your own car and was it reliable over time with no leaks? I would love to plug rather then loop the oil llines.... Is it relatively easy to disassemble and remove the internal pressure relief valve. Never seen the pump or insides? Thanks for replying you are the only one to reply to this question so far and I have been posting all day to figure this out..

 

[ozvenom]

bypass.

Ihave done this before and proved to be very relable a gear oil would probably react with the oil seals so i would stick with ATF and just pull out the bypass valve so the fluid just goes around in cirles with no pressure so there is no load on the pump . if you are not sure how to do you can send it to me iand i can do the conversion for you. cost about $35 to do it as i machine up the bungs.
Regards
oz

 

[stevechumo]

ECU Cooling Fan

Ihave done this before and proved to be very relable a gear oil would probably react with the oil seals so i would stick with ATF and just pull out the bypass valve so the fluid just goes around in cirles with no pressure so there is no load on the pump . if you are not sure how to do you can send it to me iand i can do the conversion for you. cost about $35 to do it as i machine up the bungs.
Regards
oz

Or can I just not use the pump instead? I'd like to use a shorter belt without the pump driven. Will the cooling ECU do any bad? It's a separate unit from the engine ECU. Has anyone done this? If it's ok, then I think that's when the most horsepower is released.

 

[jibby]

I would just like to remove the damn pump and shorten the serpentine belt if that can be done. Is that possible? I just don't see the reason to still have the pump work and cause any drag on the motor. It's just something that doesn't need to be there....

 

[Cobber]

I intend to mill the complete front down leaving the idler pully at the top and tig a pate over to cover the hole.

I have not pulled the unit apart yet but maybe the vanes can be pulled out of the pump and the bearings replaced with sealed units?

If you needed to retain the pully maybe this would be an idea.

 

[hi-lex]

I removed the pump and made a alloy cover plate an used shorter belt on a conversion I did in a mate hilux, it hasnt caused any probs, no slippage

 

[jibby]

I found out the best way to bypass or delete the hydraulic pump is to remove the pump from the block open the pump up and remove the vains, re-seal and install the pump then leave atleast half the pump full of oil then plug the two oil line feeds. The vains slide vains slide right out, should not be a big deal. This way the pump still runs as normal and won't foul the ECU readings, but when the pump functions there will be no load just a little splashing of oil...This is the most effective sollution I found. Thank you everyone.....

 

[Tonyd]

The minimum you need is the alternator to power your power and something to spin the alternator - the crank pulley. You'll also need some sort of tensioner. The pulley above and between the crank and alternator pulleys is the tensioner (spring loaded!).

Problem is: To use this tensioner you need the belt to go UNDER the alternator pulley OVER the tensioner then UNDER the crank pulley (like a big W).

To do this you'll need the top idler and maybe another idler pulley above the alternator so you can get the right angle on it.

If you cut off the aluminium lug that stops the tenioner fully unwinding you will find that you can use it with the serpentine belt going UNDER the tensioner. If you take the tensioner apart you will find that the tension is provided by a simple coiled spring which works well whether in tension or compression.

Cheers,

Tony