How much boost does the stock TRD V8 kit make?
- Thread starter crushu
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
thats not an early 1uz tho.
Not too bad. You'd have to convert to the 2uz heads and related items. It would be a bit of work.
I started out with a '99 1uz-fe, which is VVT-I. This is one not to be mistaken with the early 1uz engines.
crushu: Not sure what to tell you? Have you tried the tundra forums? My initial reaction is that you have a leak somewhere, but it's hard to say where.
Lextreme II
Active Member
Brad Bedell
New Member
Between 6 and 8 on the 4.7. 10-12 on the 4.0.
I'm running a 20% under drive pulley currently and have no problems with 6+ psi. I had to rig up a boost controller to knock it down a bit to make everything happy on pump fuel.
I'm running a 20% under drive pulley currently and have no problems with 6+ psi. I had to rig up a boost controller to knock it down a bit to make everything happy on pump fuel.
Well, we just dyno'ed it the other day, and with the air box all connected up, and a brand new, genuine filter in (Aussie filters are much heavier duty than US ones) it peaked at 5psi, and fell away to 3-4psi up top.
With the filter lid open, just running unfiltered (unrestricted) air thru the factory ducting to the TB, it went straight to 6psi, and sat there all the way to the top.
Boost is obviously controlled by the actuator on the side, can you get higher boost actuators?
How else can the boost stay at 6psi, even though the revs are rising?
With the filter lid open, just running unfiltered (unrestricted) air thru the factory ducting to the TB, it went straight to 6psi, and sat there all the way to the top.
Boost is obviously controlled by the actuator on the side, can you get higher boost actuators?
How else can the boost stay at 6psi, even though the revs are rising?
Brad Bedell
New Member
I spoke with Bob Garner @ TRD regarding the electronics of that kit. The only 'job' of the VSV on the side is for dropping the boost a bit right before it shifts to preserve the transmission.
Try unhooking the VSV electronics and see if that helps. Sounds to me like you have a small leak or something. The actuator has two ports, one is vacuum (top one) that helps keep the bypass closed under boost. The one on the bottom pushes it open by boost. For diagnostics, you could zip tie the bypass closed and see if it gets you to the boost level you need.
Any headers or exhaust mods that would help it flow better? Are you 100% sure the belt isn't slipping a bit under boost?
I accidentally damaged an intake gasket going together. But I also had it on and off the car about 6 times before I got everything like I wanted it to be.
Try unhooking the VSV electronics and see if that helps. Sounds to me like you have a small leak or something. The actuator has two ports, one is vacuum (top one) that helps keep the bypass closed under boost. The one on the bottom pushes it open by boost. For diagnostics, you could zip tie the bypass closed and see if it gets you to the boost level you need.
Any headers or exhaust mods that would help it flow better? Are you 100% sure the belt isn't slipping a bit under boost?
I accidentally damaged an intake gasket going together. But I also had it on and off the car about 6 times before I got everything like I wanted it to be.
Ok, I just had another look. The actuator has a vacuum line going to the top, but the bottom is not connected. The solenoid is not connected electronically, as we didn't use the TRD ECU or wiring. So as far as I can tell, the actuator should be closed all the time.
With the gaskets, we reused the old ones, and used sealant on both sides, and with 2 people, carefully placed it on.
I have also fitted a shorter belt, original one is 2618, the new one is 2605, to tighten the belt, as there was some slip with the long belt. There is now no slip, and you can tell that from the boost graph from the dyno, as it hits 6psi, and stays there, no more, no less, as long as the airbox is not connected.
With the gaskets, we reused the old ones, and used sealant on both sides, and with 2 people, carefully placed it on.
I have also fitted a shorter belt, original one is 2618, the new one is 2605, to tighten the belt, as there was some slip with the long belt. There is now no slip, and you can tell that from the boost graph from the dyno, as it hits 6psi, and stays there, no more, no less, as long as the airbox is not connected.
Jake Breyck
New Member
sorta on topic but how hard would it be to mate one of these 2uz superchargers to a early 1uz, 92 sc400/soarer motor?
Jake Breyck
New Member
thats not an early 1uz tho.
Brad Bedell
New Member
Not too bad. You'd have to convert to the 2uz heads and related items. It would be a bit of work.
I started out with a '99 1uz-fe, which is VVT-I. This is one not to be mistaken with the early 1uz engines.
crushu: Not sure what to tell you? Have you tried the tundra forums? My initial reaction is that you have a leak somewhere, but it's hard to say where.
Brad Bedell
New Member
I would think so. Bob was telling me that it makes right at 8psi on the Tundra. But then again, boost is just a measure of back pressure. So if you're flowing more air through than normal, you could be about right.
What altitude are you?
I think I'd venture over to the tundra forums and chat with them a bit. See what you can come up with.
The electronics are pretty simple really. It's a timing computer with two additional injectors driven off cylinders 1 & 2. The VSV opens to cut boost just at the shift so that the tranny will live. I chased all the pins when I got the kit to entertain using it on my Lexus. I decided I would rather be able to program the setup with the AEM F/IC.
-B
What altitude are you?
I think I'd venture over to the tundra forums and chat with them a bit. See what you can come up with.
The electronics are pretty simple really. It's a timing computer with two additional injectors driven off cylinders 1 & 2. The VSV opens to cut boost just at the shift so that the tranny will live. I chased all the pins when I got the kit to entertain using it on my Lexus. I decided I would rather be able to program the setup with the AEM F/IC.
-B
Hey mate, we have done many intake kits on supercharged cars. Its very important to run the largest size intake you can our of aluminium with the biggest k&n filter you can find.We have seen boost up to 3psi just by doing a good intake on them, your welcome to come for a drive one day to our shop and we could make you one up.www.hypertune.net If you want i could give you some tube and you could have a go by yourself.
Cheers
Ben
Cheers
Ben
I understand that a small intake will cause restriction, that is how I know that the air filter and box are too small.
But the boost goes straight to 6, and stays there, with the lid off the box. That proves that there is no problem with the intake, because if there were, the boost would drop off up top, like it does with the box connected.
With the box connected, it goes up to 5, then almost straight away, falls off.
From what I know, we used an Xede ECU and have set up the 9th & 10th injectors come in progressively. Does the factory ecu or the TRD back off the boost during gear changes? Maybe it's something we can work into the Xede? we don't have the boost actuator connected (other than the top with vacuum, so it is always shut)
But the boost goes straight to 6, and stays there, with the lid off the box. That proves that there is no problem with the intake, because if there were, the boost would drop off up top, like it does with the box connected.
With the box connected, it goes up to 5, then almost straight away, falls off.
From what I know, we used an Xede ECU and have set up the 9th & 10th injectors come in progressively. Does the factory ecu or the TRD back off the boost during gear changes? Maybe it's something we can work into the Xede? we don't have the boost actuator connected (other than the top with vacuum, so it is always shut)
Crushu,
Have you tried with the airbox shut but the filter out?
You need to identify where or what is causing the loss in boost.
Obviously it isn't upstream of the airbox so you seem to have two choices.
1. The filter is your problem.
2. The airbox inlet is too small/resticted.
Have you tried with the airbox shut but the filter out?
You need to identify where or what is causing the loss in boost.
Obviously it isn't upstream of the airbox so you seem to have two choices.
1. The filter is your problem.
2. The airbox inlet is too small/resticted.
Filter in, box shut, makes 5psi max, but falls away up top.
Box open, no filter, make 6psi down low, all the way to the top, straight line ----------------- no rise or fall, solid 6's.
Apparently, it should be 7psi.
1 psi loss across the whole rev range can't be caused by small piping, T/B, leaks, small exhaust, or wrong pulley size.
If I can find what stops the psi at 6lb, I will find the problem.
Box open, no filter, make 6psi down low, all the way to the top, straight line ----------------- no rise or fall, solid 6's.
Apparently, it should be 7psi.
1 psi loss across the whole rev range can't be caused by small piping, T/B, leaks, small exhaust, or wrong pulley size.
If I can find what stops the psi at 6lb, I will find the problem.
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