Flashing out 1uz fault codes on a test light

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mickhilux

New Member
I have completed the 2wd hilux to 1uz engine conversion and everything seems fine,but i was asked if i had cleared the codes that the donor car had, i have not done this but have heard on these forums way back that you can flash em out with a test light and the diag plug attached to the engine,i have done a search but came up with sweet F/A, how do i go about it , Do i just put 12v to the 'W' terminal as it looks like it illuminates the light in the original soarer dash. Any info welcomed,thanx Mick.
 
12volt and W then bridge Te1 and E1 and it should flash the codes. Codes are cleared when the battery gets disconnected so unless you are really clever and can do a swap without disconnected the battery any old codes will be gone. cheers
 
Don't put 12V to the W terminal.

You put 12V to one side of the test light and connect the other side of the test light to the W terminal. Then do the diagnostics.

But gloverman is correct codes are lost when battery is disconnected.
 
I guessed that but wasn't 100% thanks for clearing that up, Kelvin did say '12volts and W terminal' bit unclear but we got there in the end, i also have a problem with my auto,it doesn't like to shift at full throttle even manually,i've got the MVautos 1.5 shift kit and 2800 stall which works great,shifts very agressivly but when i spoke to MV he said he would like to see a scanner on it with live data while driving to see what its doin which involves hooking up the internal diag plug D6 goin off the soarer wiring diagrams i've got, i haven't ever heard of anyone hooking up this plug in any forums,don't know if its difficult or not but guess i'll find out soon,will also be handy later on down the track if any other faults need to be sorted.
 
you need to wire up the internal half circle diag plug that usually sits under dash
if u want to read live data
then u need a scanner that can do toyota
live data is sort of ok but prob useless on older cars like these
you need to know what yr looking for and scanners will only point in right direction

i guess u have not wired it some of the wires needed to kick down

ive had em where u cant kick down unless doing 20kph and will only kick to 2nd not 1st
 
Sorry for my unclearness. Yes use the test light between 12v and W and the test light flashes the code when Te1 and E1 are bridged. We always wire in an internal live data plug when we wire up conversions ( well we fit a plug which plugs to our own internal plug ). I feel it makes life much easier when working on the conversion and seeing whats happening even though earlier toyota live data is very primative.

Cheers
 
where do u get all the diag plugs from gloverman
unless the customer supplies the diag plug i never wire it up
ive got 2 or 3 plugs left
most guys just supply we an engine harness so hard to fit a diag plug on every job
mind u ive done over 80 1uzs so makes it hard
 
Sideshow you have misunderstood my post; my ute kicks down fine from any gear its the upshift thats the problem, If i stand on the throttle in 1st wait for the rpms to get near 6000 then shift manually the trans will not upshift untill i lift off the throttle for a split second, it just bounces off the 6500 limiter, does the same in 2nd too, if left in drive it shifts fine.
 
oh sorry

the back off to change gears when u manually changing gears is common
mine did it too
basically leave the thing in drive or u have to learn to change gears manually 1500 rpm lower
if u r changing gears manually at 6000 by the time the ecu puts its dumb brain into gear
u have already hit red line once u hit redline it will not change gears unless u back off
i think this is std as mine id dit all the time till i learnt how to drive it
so if u want to change gears at 6000 slap lever form 1st to 2nd at 4500 or 5000
do it afew times and u start to learn when to change gears

i stopped doing that and fitted a signal adjusting box and tricked the ecu telling it i was going 10kph slower made it shift gears abit later
then i got valve body tricked up by vinces at blacktown
this made changes harsher and slightly quicker
then i fitted tip tronic kit this made gear changes much quicker
the tip tronic was best thing i did
 
When we wire I have a universal plug I wire in and have a workshop diagnostic factory plug with the other side of my universal plug. It means only I can get in but thats what I get paid for. Sideshow if I ever wreak a car I grap diagnostic plugs and also go on hunting / gathering trips to the wreakers for plugs if I ever head that way to collect other parts.

Cheers
 
heheh wish i can get stuff like that here
i work out of a shop called sss automotive
they import stuff from japan so every few months they goto japan so i write a list fo things for them to grab me hehehe
i guess i can put an order in for them
98% of my jobs usually only come with engine harness
no dash harness
front cuts are not as popular here in australia
people save money and buy just the minimal needed to get it running
but at end of day i hardly use diag plugs and scanners on old toyotas
i use my trusty multimeter and test light which i cant live without
go and buy a power probe 3 fking best tool ever inventedyou learn things 10 tmes faster using a multimeter hehheeh
 
Well fuck me its working now, what i've been tryin to post for the last 24hrs is what exactly is Tip-tronic and how does it work? How much does it cost?
 
basically u push buttons or paddles to go up or down gears
theres a million ways to do it each have good and bad points
 


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