fabbing 1uz turbo manifold questions

[AutoLuxLexES]

Hello all,
got myself a 92 sc400, that needs some engine work. i figured since it is out, why not throw a turbo on. This will be my first FI vehicle, so bear with me. I find myself fairly crafty, so i think this would be fun, but i need some answers before i just start buying:

1. When designing the manifold, can i use the OEM manifold flanges, and just cut off the primary runners? where does everyone else source their 1uzfe manifold flanges from?

2. as for the material of the actual piping, i saw that redphoenix listed a website of acestainless.com, found the 90° piping, but am unsure if i should use s/10 mild steel, s/10 304l, or s/10 316l?

3. Would a single ct26 be a good starting turbo? for say 3-400 hp?

I am new to this, and have been researching a lot and will continue, just need some help to get me going.

Thanks
Charley

 

[em_knaps]

Hey Charley,

there is a cad file floating around the forums for the exhuast flange,

that is what i used.

I also used mild steel steam pipe for my manifold's
S40 bends 38NB, heavy but durable
they come in different bends and are very easy to work with, i sugest dipping them in paint stripper 1st tho, the protective coating is an abosolute swine to remove with a grinder or sander and if you happen to have any left it makes welding a PITA

Im not sure a single CT26 would work, a tad small i think. they are used on standard
7MGTE's which are only a 3L so it would spool fast but be quite restrictive in the higher RPM

two CT26's would posible work ok, may be a bit laggy tho.

Daniel.

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

Where is the file at? I have been searching all sorts of keywords and have not come up with this file. Thanks for the tip on the piping, yes, welding without removing paint makes it difficult to weld, so i could imagine about the protective coating to be the same.
as for the ct26 7m turbos, i believe one is too restrictive from my research, what other common turbos are available in the junkyards? Something for single and something for twin setup since i will probably be doing both manifolds just because I'm a nut like that. Just like to keep my options open.

Thanks,
Charley

 

[stevechumo]

Charley,
Welcome to the FI chapter. The 92 SC400 can take some serious boost and make serious power. A single CT26 turbo is too small for a 4.0 V8. You'll need 2 of them. It'll choke the engine, although you don't look for big power. You'll need at least a GT35 or a T04 or T4.

I have a complete bolt-on turbo manifold kit (left & right) including the downpipe that I'll sell very soon. This kit made near 400 rwhp on my car and could make a lot more. This kit is built for a T4 turbo. If you don't want to spend time fabricating it, but are interested in it, shoot me a PM.

 

[spf_lexus]

If you have a small budget, stock manifolds can be mounted upside down, facing the front fo the car and then fab the rest yourself. They are pretty stout from the factory and should hold the heat fine. You might want to brace the piping to the block if you plan to attach a lot of weight further away from the flanges.

And if all the fab work seems like a lot, Steve Chumo has a solid setup that supports big hp. Steve's got the goods... hehe

 

[em_knaps]

I recently helped a friend twin turbo a 1UZ in a holden commodore racecar,
the manifold were UGLY.. and i mean ugly.
but, that said it still made good power.

two VF8 subaru turbo's were used which i think are a good match and are clockable.


see here for flange cad file:

http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13112&highlight=header+flange

junkyard turbo's for a single would be some thing off of a 300HP truck

perhaps a Ford Falcon XR6 turbo, they are a 4L so i guess would work ok.

for a twin, anything, subaru, nissan toyota, anything 2L turbo would work well

I mean a silvia with SR20DET has a T25 garret, which is tiny but they make good power and spool fast. something garret would be my pick.

the common toyota turbo's dont clock well which is quite important when fitting to a different engine in a different orientation,

By clocking i meen turning the compressor ,core and turbine independently of each other and still having the W/G actuators fit.

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

ok, i found the file finally. I would like to buy stevechumo's setup, but i am on a budget build. i have no doubts about his setup either, but still, theres no pride like when you say you built it yourself. and i can move at my own pace because funds are limited. I havent thought about the subaru turbos yet, but have been thinking about the t25 sr20 turbos, because i know that they are fairly abundunt and they are matched for 2L, so twins would be a good setup for twin V8 setup like everybody says.

btw, if i come across a mk3 supra, should i pull the injectors? or only from the 7mgte models?

Thanks
Charley

 

[em_knaps]

injectors that i have found that fit and have used are:]

S5 RX7 (550cc) toyota type plug
mitsi 4G63 (450cc) bosch style plug
Mitsi 4G93 1800 turbo? (380cc) bosch style plug

i think plenty of other denso top feed injectors fit so just follow your nose
nissan top feed are slightly smaller in o ring size so arent ideal and bosch style are too big so dont fit without machining.

the 1st set of injectors i got were 450cc Mitsi 4G63T injectors, <300usd off ebay and had been cleaned with new buckets and pintel caps.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

very usefull website for finding out if junkyard injectors are any good.

 

[stevechumo]

ok, i found the file finally. I would like to buy stevechumo's setup, but i am on a budget build. i have no doubts about his setup either, but still, theres no pride like when you say you built it yourself. and i can move at my own pace because funds are limited. I havent thought about the subaru turbos yet, but have been thinking about the t25 sr20 turbos, because i know that they are fairly abundunt and they are matched for 2L, so twins would be a good setup for twin V8 setup like everybody says.

btw, if i come across a mk3 supra, should i pull the injectors? or only from the 7mgte models?

Thanks
Charley

I can let it go for a price that won't cost you an arm and a leg. Guaranteed. The longest and hardest part is the turbo manifolds. If you want your car up and boosting quickly, then shoot me a PM. heh..heh.

 

[JustenGT8]

If you are on a budget then just reverse the stock manifolds....even the log ones will still allow 300rwkw. A myriad of single T options (single T obviously cheaper), but a half decent Ebay GT35 with a T4 housing will be super responsive and still have 550hp potential.

You can also add 7MGTE injectors to the list that will fit....the plugs need a very minor trim. I ran these out to 400rwkw so plenty of flow and still give a good idle.

and apart from the ECU, that's it. Everything else can stay stock. Under $1K (plus ECU)...hard to get more budget than that

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

but if i flip the manifolds upside down, would i still have all my accessories? if i remember right, i will lose all of that.

Im going to bring the exhaust flange file down to school and see if someone will do it for me. but since they are students, and i dont really know either, what material should the flange be cut out of?

Thanks all,
Charley

edit: ok, found that the flanges should be 3/8-1/2" mild steel.

 

[stevechumo]

but if i flip the manifolds upside down, would i still have all my accessories? if i remember right, i will lose all of that.

Im going to bring the exhaust flange file down to school and see if someone will do it for me. but since they are students, and i dont really know either, what material should the flange be cut out of?

Thanks all,
Charley

edit: ok, found that the flanges should be 3/8-1/2" mild steel.

You may have clearance issue with the alternator on the passenger side and A/C on the driver side. Keep in mind that pointing the stock manifolds forward means they'll need to be merged in the front. 3/8" should be good enough for the flange.

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

ok, what about 304/304L schedule 10 for piping?
sorry for this guys, i just want to make sure i buy the correct stuff, because it always seems like i buy the wrong things at first and end up with extra crud laying around, lol
Charley

a metal shop recommended DOM tubing, but ive only heard of DOM in roll cages.

 

[XR8tt]

Pics are not coming up.. For me anyway..
Easier to load them on www.photobucket.com
Then copy / past img link...
I use mild steel and steam pipe bends etc ..
Then ceramic coat them...
With merge pipes cut at 45* over 4" then grind out
so all pipes fit together so you can weld around them.
The rest is easy..
Or you could merge 2 into one X's 2 on each side and have longer
twin pipes to turbo or crossover, if single...
The design is not as important to make power as you think..
Unless your after every last bit of power as in formula one...
Even a 2" log with 1 5/8 primaries running to log at an angle will make
good power.. Seen log style on pushrods making 800+ rwhp...

 

[RedPhoenix]

I used SCH10 304... it was easy to work with and cheap.

 

[4U2QUIK]

yeah, the stainless mandrels bends can be had for under 8$

 

[AutoLuxLexES]

Yes, but for those using stainless pipes, what material flange? Because stainless plates are outrageously expensive. 1' x2' in 3/8" thickness was about $250. And steel suppliers don't suggest welding ms flange with ss pipes.

Thanks
Charley

 

[RedPhoenix]

MS flanges... and I dont see an issue with doing so... whats it going to do? fall apart? SS flanges would be a lot more if you dont have a hook up.

 

[XR8tt]

Make sure outer holes in flange are drilled out to allow for expansion..
This prevents heat distortion..
I've had no issues welding s/s to mild steel, using TIG s/s filler rod..

My V clamps are s/s to mild steel also...

 

[stevechumo]

Mild steel with thickness of 1/16 and thicker would be fine for manifold pipes. Mild steel flanges will be fine, too. I've been using 3/8" flanges with no problem. If you want extra protection for the manifolds, ceramic-coat them, inside out. That will prevent the heat to absorb deep into the steel.