jordys ski boat
New Member
Here is a do it your self procedure on making your own supercharged manifold for the 1uzfe engine.
The first photo is to get the cross ram manifold and cut it with a 9" 230mm angle grinder or the hard way with a hacksaw. Cut as close to where the ports meet so there is some left to machine off.
Then once you have cut ports off, its time to machine the ports flat using a milling machine. You will need an angle plate put on a 45° angle (about). You have to machine it very carefully because its real easy to break the manifold at the flange. You have to machine the ports down far enough so when you bolt the manifold on the engine, the port on the L.H.S misses the starter motor.
After you have machined the angle, sit the fuelrails with the injectors in and put the 125mmx10mm plate against the ports to see if you can still get the fuelrails on and off. I fully recommend that you weld up a jig to weld the manifold up. To make it you need some heavy flat plate.
Before you do all of the above, sit the cross ram manifold on the plates and drill and tap the manifold to the plates. While it is all bolted together, weld the end plates to the jig, then you will be able to fully weld the manifold with out unbolting it.
You can do it with out a jig but you can't weld it all on the engine there is just not enough room so you have to weld it carefully so it does not warp.
Once you have cut and machined the ports flat, you need to mark the holes out onto the side plates 125mmx10mmx400mmlong. I use a bit of wire and sharpen the end so that when you mark the ports out onto the plate it flexes around the shape of the ports.
Then when that is done you need to drill the holes out, you measure the smallest part of the port and what ever that is you drill the holes out.
Now you are ready for welding the ports onto the plates, preferably tig weld the ports using 5-4034 cast alum filler wire but its not a must.
When you have finished welding, you get a die grinder with a sharp bure and grind the holes out to the shape of the ports and then finish it with a sanding wheel.
Then its time to make the bottom plate. This plate has to miss the starter motor when the manifold sits on the engine so the plate has to be rolled by a brake press or a folder.
Then its time to weld the two sides together this is when the both sides of the manifold has to be bolted to the engine. If using the jig then just tack it and see if the manifold misses the starter motor.
The bottom plate is 3mm alum. Once the bottom plate has been fully welded you will need to machine the top plates. This is how you determine the height of your manifold.
When that is finished its time for the top plate to be welded on using 16mm or 20mm alum plate. You will need to bolt the manifold down on the engine and weld as much as you can because this is where the manifold will pull the most but you don't have this problem when you have a jig. TO BE CONTINUED
The first photo is to get the cross ram manifold and cut it with a 9" 230mm angle grinder or the hard way with a hacksaw. Cut as close to where the ports meet so there is some left to machine off.
Then once you have cut ports off, its time to machine the ports flat using a milling machine. You will need an angle plate put on a 45° angle (about). You have to machine it very carefully because its real easy to break the manifold at the flange. You have to machine the ports down far enough so when you bolt the manifold on the engine, the port on the L.H.S misses the starter motor.
After you have machined the angle, sit the fuelrails with the injectors in and put the 125mmx10mm plate against the ports to see if you can still get the fuelrails on and off. I fully recommend that you weld up a jig to weld the manifold up. To make it you need some heavy flat plate.
Before you do all of the above, sit the cross ram manifold on the plates and drill and tap the manifold to the plates. While it is all bolted together, weld the end plates to the jig, then you will be able to fully weld the manifold with out unbolting it.
You can do it with out a jig but you can't weld it all on the engine there is just not enough room so you have to weld it carefully so it does not warp.
Once you have cut and machined the ports flat, you need to mark the holes out onto the side plates 125mmx10mmx400mmlong. I use a bit of wire and sharpen the end so that when you mark the ports out onto the plate it flexes around the shape of the ports.
Then when that is done you need to drill the holes out, you measure the smallest part of the port and what ever that is you drill the holes out.
Now you are ready for welding the ports onto the plates, preferably tig weld the ports using 5-4034 cast alum filler wire but its not a must.
When you have finished welding, you get a die grinder with a sharp bure and grind the holes out to the shape of the ports and then finish it with a sanding wheel.
Then its time to make the bottom plate. This plate has to miss the starter motor when the manifold sits on the engine so the plate has to be rolled by a brake press or a folder.
Then its time to weld the two sides together this is when the both sides of the manifold has to be bolted to the engine. If using the jig then just tack it and see if the manifold misses the starter motor.
The bottom plate is 3mm alum. Once the bottom plate has been fully welded you will need to machine the top plates. This is how you determine the height of your manifold.
When that is finished its time for the top plate to be welded on using 16mm or 20mm alum plate. You will need to bolt the manifold down on the engine and weld as much as you can because this is where the manifold will pull the most but you don't have this problem when you have a jig. TO BE CONTINUED