Diagnosing a possibly dead 1989 Crown 1UZ ECU

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361UZ

Member
Hi All.
Its been a while!
I am trying to diagnose a possibly dead ECU from a 1989 Crown (part number 89661-30430, 8 - 26 - 16 - 22 pin).
I can see 12Volts on pins 1 and 2 of the 22 pin connector and ground on pin 14 of the 26 pin connector. I am referring to a set of diagrams I downloaded from here years ago. The wire colours match the diagram, so I know its correct.
I am not seeing any activity on pin 5 of the 22 pin connector (Engine Check light output) with IGN on.
I can hear the EFI relay and the IGN relay energising when I turn the key. The car wont turn over when I turn the key to start. The start relay does not energise. Does this require the ECU to be running?
I am seeing no lights on the dash at all, but I am seeing +12Volts on the warning light panel (but no lights on at all.)
What should I be checking next?

Now some background. I had the engine and everything running in a Crown half cut. All good and worked fine. I then dismantled the 1/2 cut and went about mounting the engine/gearbox etc in my 1936 Chev.
I decided that it has been a while since the engine had run, so I am now doing a quick and dirty run to oil the engine etc.
When I dismantled the Crown, I kept the loom, and spent many weeks dismantling that leabving out what I consider unnecessary. I intend using as much of the Crown parts as I can in the Chev, including the dash, steering column, wiring for lights, wipers, cruize control etc. Not the ABS or air suspension, although I do have all those parts if anyone is interested.
I am a retired computer mainframe guy so I am aware of what is required re wiring standards etc and could if necessary wire the car up, but as I said, I am keen to use a lot of the Crown's features, especially the dash.
I do remember one of the members on here offered an ECU refurb service (at a cost)? Anyone know if that is still available?
So, anyone with a long memory can help?
 
PM Gloverman.

Probably the best 1UZ man in the world.

Based in Hamilton New Zealand (but don't hold that against him) and Kelvin is a nice guy.

Sorted a dead Soarer ECU for me a few years ago and still running great.
 
Ive been meaning to offer some help. I do have work to do at times. I did a wiring video on the 131 crown on youtube. Ecu has nothing to do with engine cranking on start. Closest is the start inhibit wires in loom down to gearbox selector switch. These do send signals to ecu but ecu wont prevent cranking on key to start.
 
Thanks guys Appreciate your quick input.
As I explained, I am using the standard loom at the moment, with unnecessary wiring removed. This I did a few years ago when I had 8 weeks off work due to surgery - and what better way to R & R than to spend it de-wiring a Crown!
Before I dismantled it, the 1/2 cut ran ok, and the wiring I removed was things like air bag (suspension), traction/ABS bits, anything that had wiring going to the sills or pillars (the were sliced off anyway in the 1/2 cut process).
I then had two looms - all cut wiring and all connectors labelled as to what they did and if I wasn't sure, where they came from. I can post a picture but you'd probably vomit!
Now fast forward to recently when I felt it necessary to start the engine in its new home. See above post.
Today, after a fair bit of researching and doing the basic tests, I found I had left a vital plug disconnected - the main power wire from the engine fuse box to the interior fuse box. (That'll do it!).
Needless to say, its all good! The dash lights up, and within the scope of not actually starting it - the instruments work. I tested the ECU by 2 simple tests: 1, Linking TE and TE1 in the diag plug - the Check Engine light flashes at about a 2Hz rate. and 2, cranking the engine while watching a spark plug connected to one of the engine's spark plug connectors and resting on the plenum chamber - sparks OK.
Thanks Rod for your help. It made me feel that there are still people interested (in Vintage Crowns) to respond, and thanks Gloverman, because I didn't know what conditions led to engaging the starter. I had checked the gearbox selector switch (there's two and I cant see what the one on the shifter does!), and that checked ok, but with no wiring diagrams that show actual connectors from there to the starting circuit, I was guessing.
Compounding my issues was that the instrument lighting control was dirty, so even when I sorted out the disconnected power cable, the starting worked, as did the check engine (and ign) lights, but no display on the dash. That came good when I fiddled with the control.
Yay team! Next is to rig up some temporary fuel supply and let it go!
Thanks again guys!
 
Ok, for anyone following.
I rigged up a temporary fuel tank (5 liter Jerry can) and a pump (VL Turbo pump I had lying around). Double checked availability of fire extinguisher etc and gave it a whirl.
Took a few cranks (stuck injectors?) then it fired. Lots of noise! (Open exhaust). And smoke - I had ran oil down each spark plug hole a few days ago. Then as each injector freed up it began to run smoother and smoother.
Only problem is a big oil leak. I am using a remote oil filter and two AN-10 type oil lines, one of which just wont seal on the remote filter connector. I suspect the AN-10 fitting at the filter adapter end is a bit, well, cheap!
 
That video was never intended for public release as it was part of the instructions which I sell but as Crown ECU are not a very popular one anymore I made it public to see how it went. Since I have had quite a few people with crown ECU contact me. With the instructions the video makes far more sense and the info has the relay and fuse box setup. The loom I made from that video is sitting on a box with more plans for it yet.
 
Thanks mate.
I was going to view the video's then post my comments on here. Time is the problem! There has been an inordinate increase in interesting 'stuff' on Youtube lately! And it is all of interest to me.
Focusing on the 1UZ, I am ATM sorting out oil leaks from the remote oil filter setup. I am using an adapter plate (you know the sort) and two AN-10 braided hoses to the remote filter mounted on the firewall. Unfortunately I bet my chips on that working 100% first time out. No way. Heaps of leaks, and now one of the braided hoses is leaking were an AN-10 coupler is. Main problem is cheap ebay products!
So now I dont trust that - ongoing, so I am rejigging it possibly using the original remote filter setup - but adapted to get away from the headers.
 
I did a video on remote oil filters too. I'm not a fan. I need to do a video of the different stock filter housings and the one I normally use when not running Air conditioning. I see lots of remote oil filter issues and have swapped a few motors as a result of problem ones done by others. One had been on for years and the guy swapped to a different filter with a anti drain back valve. It had been plumbed wrong for years then the engine failed when the different filter was fitted.


Link to the ones I use the most.

https://www.facebook.com/TheCartuneCompany/photos/rpp.233919699117/10156432165179118/?type=3&theater
 
Yeah, saw that video and a few others. I really cant see how anyone going this far into an engine swap could not know which way the hoses go. But I suppose its also all about ongoing maintenance etc. If the car is sold later down the track and old mate who buys it has no idea, the hoses could get swapped sometime later...
I watched the video on wiring on the Crown loom. Bit had to follow, but I reckon you wouldn't want too many people sorting out what to do, if you are trying to sell that same information.
The video is also more about using the car's existing loom and adapting the Crown loom/s to that. Not so much starting from scratch with a car that has no loom.
For me, at the stage the video goes to, I am pretty right so far. Many good tips though. Stuff I didn't know, or even consider (eg the under bonnet diag connector, and the IAC wiring and testing, which I am leaving stock at this stage).
Thanks again mate.
 
I reviewed this thread and realised it got a bit sidetracked onto oil filters etc.
However for completeness I will post the eventual solution.
Due to the amount of "points of failure" in a remote setup, fittings, oil lines, filter mounts and so on, I simply bit the bullet and bought one of Gloverman's oil filter adapters. Job done. No more leaks. No more worry. No more interference with the chassis etc. AND no more "What if an oil line lets go on the freeway? I am not going to know until funny noises and smells emanate from the engine". (Too late then!).

THANKS Gloverman!
 


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