comments on build plan.

[Pro]

okay folks - i'm sure some of you are aware of my build plans to re-power a KE70 corolla with an early crown 1UZFE. i want to know if anyone can see any glaring errors with this build plan so here it is.

seam welded KE70 'rolla
hilux diff with 4.5:1 detroit lockerwith rose jointed top links.
unsure on tranny yet - prob just a kitted trimatic. if i do go manual i will be using aTilton Throwout Bearing on something like a supra box

pre 1994 crown 1UZFE
Kelford Cams
My KKK turbo
7MGTE 440cc injectors
oil catch can
50mm+ wastegate
a decent intercooler (say 600 x 300 x 100mm)
water injection
Honda CBR coils on plugs
an EMS 8860 with upgrade to 8 ignitors (does anyone else know of a comp that can run 8 coils for around $1500? if so let me know!)
3in manifold and intercooler piping - 3in exhaust with 4in dump.
if manual will fit a recirculated BOV - no bling though.

engine will remain stock except for a relocated oil filter (should i fit an oil cooler?) and the cams. i will rebuild it with a fresh hone job, new rings and bearings.

so, what did i miss (aside from fuel system) and what is wrong wiith this setup?

 

[Lextreme II]

Make sure u have a catch can and PCV delete. Otherwise, this sounds like a beast.... You should consider Mazda Rx7 460 cc injectors or perhaps smaller injectors. Since u will be running stock internals. I would stick with injectors less then 300 cc. Secondly, i would delete the water injection since u have Intercooler already.

 

[Pro]

i can't delete the PCV due to ADRs (australian design regulations) but catch can it is.

i'd rather run the 7M injectors as they bolt in (do the FD3S injectors bolt in too?) - and i will be pumping in over a bar of boost so 400cc is an absolute minimum. 80% duty cycle is better that 99%!

will be running WI to help my emissions and further that - i don't trust an A2A intercooler to work 100% all the time - they really only work when you're at 60kph plus. as well as that, in australia we can see 40degC (120degF+) temps a fair bit.

i might even run water injection only to keep the weight down and plumbing to a minimum - dunno yet.

 

[mycarhasposessedme]

I like it Pro, engine very similiar to my setup.
Seems well thought out.
Go hard son.

 

[Anaema]

an oil cooler is probly a good idea at over a BAR of boost.

 

[Pro]

i'm more worried about keeping the oil cool for the turbo - the engine can handle higher oil temps than olskool cores can. oil is it's only source of lube AND cooling.

 

[Anaema]

no its not. some turbos are water cooled. i think Garretts are...

 

[Pro]

yes - it is... :wtf:

it only has oil as the cooling an lubrication. check the core out for yourself.

see pic.

 

[Anaema]

oh right... your not using garrett turbos. better get the oil cooler then.

 

[Pro]

anyone else?

 

[Peewee]

All I can add is that have you applied for permission/preapproval to do this swap?

Its just that I highly doubt they'll approve a V8 Corolla.
Under the current system its up to the guy reading your mod form, but under the new system there is no chance. I'm pretty sure we haven't moved over to the new system yet.

Obviously the turbo will be going on after rego (providing you can get it rego'd).

If you can't get it rego'd, then you can go nuts.

Oh, hows the budget for this?
15k minimum I'd expect.

 

[Pro]

hey thanks for the comments Andrew.

car will be registered with the NDRA (drag racing assoc.) and i really don't plan to get full rego - maybe club rego at a stretch. was just planning a very innocent drag car.

if i were going for street rego i'd start with an ST141 corona and go for engineering that way. it's a physically bigger car and heavier too (1024kg) - but not so much that it's a restriction. it's a thought mind you - would be cool to have it engineered.

what are the regs for cars over 1000kg? capacity = 4x weight when turbo?

all the work will be done by myself, incl new engine mounts / manifolds / gearbox mount and maybe tunnel mods. i think i can get out of it for under 10k not incl a good car. engines are around a grand, i have the turbo ($250), plumbing is cheap in mild steel, gearbox will be about $2k though and the diff / top links about the same. half cage about $750. add a cheap computer, CBR coils, fuel system and half decent front brakes and i reckon i'm getting close to $10k minus engineering.

does that sound right...?

 

[Peewee]

You've forgotten the cams/ecu/tuning/electrics/fuelpump in that 10k.

I reckon there is a good 4-5k in that, depending on what brands you go with.

EDIT: I see you have accounted for some of this, but I think you have under budgeted.

The new regs are between 900 and 1100kg, 4 times multiplier for NA, 2.5 times for FI.
And over 1100kg 5 times for NA, 3 times for FI.

So lightest NA 1UZ car would be factory weight of 992kg (that ST141 looks like a good bet).
And lightest FI 1UZ car would be factory weight of 1322kg (MX73 Cressida is 1360kg... any one see where this is heading...)


But the drag license sounds good.
Looked into the RA28 Celica's? MUCH harder to find a good body, but much nicer looking.

There area also a few 2 door KE70/AE71/TE72 models.
This would be my pick of the bunch

Not entirely sure how the weight of these measures up though.

But I wouldn't be trusting Toyota/Rego weights anyway.

As far as I can tell they are based on car/seats/motor/gbox/diff.
ie, no oils (engine, gbox, diff, powersteer), no fluids (brake, radiator), no spare, no tool kit, no battery, etc etc.
Thats the only way I can see a factory MX73 weighing 1360kg.

 

[Pro]

ah - those regs sound good - pity they don't allow for what i want to do though!!

just getting the stock motor running with the turbo (will add cams later), CBR coils and EMS 8860, adding the hilux diff, EA rear brakes and 4spot calipers up front ( i have some volvo ones lying around - cost me nix) and getting it up and running with the auto box...

aaaaaand there we go, all of a sudden it's sounding more than 10k isn't it...! i think even $12k might be a bit light.

if i could get a supra bellhousing cheap and a box i'd just use the tilton throwout bearing to save space - trouble is adding al those parts + a clutch to handle it all soon adds up to the cost of a sorted automatic!

as far as the body style goes - i think just a stock 4dr auto to keep it nice and cheap. a quokka special sorta thing.

oh woeth me - decisions... decisions...

 

[Peewee]

If you are building it for drag racing, and sub 11 second drag racing, I'd just get a TH350 and be done with it.

 

[Pro]

that was my thinking too originally - but i've seen a number of tonners running 11s with trimatics and i figured that might be the way to go instead.

might google for some turbo 350 info.

shooting for mid 10s - would be nice but it would take a fair bit of practice!

 

[Pro]

just to further this - i'm gonna head out to pick a part on the weekend and measure up a KE70 bay and an ST141 bay and see just what fits. if i can stuff it all into a KE70 then i will otherwise an ST141 it is.

now to get collecting some more parts. drifta_r32 on ebay is Perth based and sells 60mm gates for $269 and HKS style 50mm for $189.

has anyone had any probs with generic stuff like this?

 

[Peewee]

Hows the 240C going?

 

[Pro]

sold and gone as of last sat. i can actually USE my carport now...

there's a guy from NZ over here who runs his gold 240C with an LD28 patrol diesel turbo on biofuel. he bought it because it's such an awesome shell.

the 1UZ has gone to a better home - MaxPower (Ryan) has it in his shed now.

will be starting from scratch now - have o hunt down a cheap engine in good condition. know where i can look?

 

[Peewee]

Ahhh, split it up, cool.

Reusing the manifolds you made?

And CLG has your cheap engines.
http://www.lextreme.com/forums/member.php?u=730