Cam seals 1uz

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el maestro

New Member
Well I searched on the forum but I found nothing on the subject

I wanted to know what is involved in replacing the rear plug and front seal of the camshaft's?

I heard somewhere that you have to remove the cams themselves?
 
The rear plug is a simple take off the cam covers and slip them out.

The front cam seals can be done with the cams in place but you do need to remove the cam belt , distributors, and cam drive sprokets to do it.

The workshop manual says install cams and then drive the seals onto the cam. I would suggest ease the front cam saddle and slide the old off and the new on.
 
^thanks man that is awesome because only my rear plugs are leaking and I have to get the car on the road as soon as possible.

Appreciate the help
 
Normally the rear seals hardly leak unless you do FI. Front involve timing belt removal along with the cam gear. You should do this along with water pump and timing belt.
 
Oddly enough only my rears leak and my car is stock.

I can clearly see it shooting oil out the back as the revs increase.

Thank god I dont have to do the fronts.
 
If that is the case, you better check your PVC valve or possible execessive blow by. Are you running FI?

FI(Forced Induction) Right?

If so then no its just a 95 LS400 and one day it just started leaking after hitting my exhaust on some brick roads(guessing it might have moved the seal just enough so that it leaks. But the under the car is all soaked with oil from the wind blowing it back when I am driving.

I will check the pcv though to make sure.
 
There are two block plates behind the rear seals (one on each side). Normally they dont come off. You can clean out the rear seal and reinstall with some silicone and screw the plates back.
 
Lex..about the rear cam seals

I'm not sure what you mean by the "blocking plates". I've notice a metal cover on the rear left cam(driver side), but nothing inside the rt rear cam housing, I can see the rubber "cup" seal being blown out but do not see any blocking plate on this cam housing, should there be one there? Thanks.

LS400GUY
 
Both sides have blocking plates. The left (driver) side has the plate that also holds the fuel rails. And the right side has the plate by itself. They must be blocked, or oil will be leaked. Customizing the plate is easy. Just find something to cover the seal and and bolt them using 2 10mm bolts right near the seals. That's where the original plate is bolted to.
 
Cam seal

Both sides have blocking plates. The left (driver) side has the plate that also holds the fuel rails. And the right side has the plate by itself. They must be blocked, or oil will be leaked. Customizing the plate is easy. Just find something to cover the seal and and bolt them using 2 10mm bolts right near the seals. That's where the original plate is bolted to.

Thanks Steve, it's a mystery to me why the rt plate is missing, I guess it must have worked itself loose and came off, the plate and the seal have disappeared. I'll fashion another plate to replace it, would the dealer stock the blocking plates? Thanks again.

LS400GUY
 
I think you can post a thread on this forum asking if anyone has that plate and you can probably buy it from him for cheap. Dealer should have it, but I think it'll be expensive.
 
any advice on the front cam seal replacements without removing the cam covers on a 1998 LS 400? It seems it can not be done on the vvti cam pulleys without first removing the cam covers so you can brace the cam while removing the inner hex bolt from the pulley, any suggestions on how to accomplish this without removing the cam covers? On the vvti engs, the pulleys move independently of the cams when the vvti is activated, which makes it difficult to remove the bolt without turning the cam itself.
 
cam housing seal rplmt - glove

Why are you worried about removing the cam covers?

Sorry, I meant removing the "valve" covers, I'm trying to replace the front cam housing oil seals on a 1998 LS400, I'm trying to figure out how to remove the center bolt in the cam without turning the pulley, the cam and pulley move "independently" on the vvti engs. '97 and older cars are different because they don't have the vvti. I can't just hold the pulley in place and remove the center bolt in the "cam", the cam itself has to be locked down, it can't be done without removing the valve covers to gain access to cams. Do you know what I'm referring to? Thanks much.
 
rear cam plug on 1uz heads
 

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One of staff members removes altezza VVti units which are similar to the 1uz ones without removing the valve covers so I will have to ask him. He might just hit them with the rattle gun. I have only seen him have trouble with one which already had the head of the bolt rounded off. Cams where being thrown away anyway so it didnt matter too much.
I did understand that you where refering to cam covers and valve covers as the same part. We can call them tappet covers and rocker covers too just to add other names to the mix. Again not hard to remove them no matter what they are called. Cheers
 
Hi Ash:

Thanks for the pics on the blocking plate for the rear cam plugs, but I've already taken care of that months ago, my problem now is removing the "front cam/housing seals" on a 1998 LS400 with the VVTI engine. As I've mentioned, there's a hex bolt located in the center of the cams that has to be removed, but the cam has to remain stationary. I don't this job can be done without removing the valve covers and locking the movement of the cams while removing the front seals, has anyone done this job and would like to share your experience? Thanks again Ash, but as you can see I'm referring to front cam seals removal.

LS400GUY
 


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