bugg**!!!!!! timing belt instructions in tutorial section WRONG!

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zen

New Member
timing marks are totally different and belt is wrong length..ahhhhhhhhhhhhh

car is at work blocking up workshop..have to get it sorted asap before hols over or boss go mad!!ie tomorrow!!!

engine is 1uz-fe 1995...dont know what from but UK model..

stripped it down,and what a barsta5d job..everything stuck,getting water pump off took hours!the thermostate housing (ali) bit just would not come out of inlet manifold...

so 7hrs later putting back together discovered noticed before,but thought must be making mistake (original belt had no markings) that the cam timing marks are not at 11 and 1 clock,but at 10 and 2..there ARE factory marks on backing plates behind cam sprockets to align on to...and they line up with cam shaft sprocket marks..(i marked it all up before removing belt)

and then...fitting up belt discovered belt is toooooooooooooo long...its 2 teeth to big..

anyone got correct part numbers/install instructions for 1995 engine (skinny rods)

also tensioner is different lenght.(body that extends downwards)
help!!
 
ok...given me wrong belt...wont buy from the states again in a hurry...

but the timing marks....
 
never trust marks on timing belts as ther eis so many manufacturers u dont knwo how accurate they are
but marks on std pulleys will always be right
toyota belt prices arent to bad these days so i always buy genuine

only way to know if belt is longer is to sit it ontop of old belt which u should always do
before fitting anyway and if u can still see original belt marks i double check marks to new belt
have u compressed the tensioner then put a small pin to hold it whitle u rebolt it on
i recon any original 1uz workshop manual on the net should have correct instrucitons on fitting them
there are shitloads out there and u shoudl find one in 5 minutes

anyway have u compared new belt with old as that is only way u will know if its too long
which should be done before fitment anyway
doesnt sound like a professional mechanic shop heheheheh
 
Timing belts on these things are really easy. Forget about the markings on the belt! Just count the teeth on the darn thing and see if the new one matches up with the previous one. Then use the cam gear marks and TDC mark on crank pulley. Make sure belt is tight on the right (facing towards the engine from the front) and let the tensioner release go when you put that back in. Then rotate the engine a couple times with a socket on the main pulley (sparks plugs out to make it really easy).
 
Timing belts on these things are really easy. Forget about the markings on the belt! Just count the teeth on the darn thing and see if the new one matches up with the previous one. Then use the cam gear marks and TDC mark on crank pulley. Make sure belt is tight on the right (facing towards the engine from the front) and let the tensioner release go when you put that back in. Then rotate the engine a couple times with a socket on the main pulley (sparks plugs out to make it really easy).


yep ..i agree...all the "tutorial" on here had to say was find the f$£"ing marks and away you go...but it dont do it!!more bloody confusing than my mrs!!

it is indeed a piece of piss..as long as you ignore the "tutorial"!!

i replaced all the idlers , tensioner and water pump while at it..took 2hrs to fit it all back together and time it up..just 7rs to strip!!!top water "pipe" from pump to upper manifold would not shift,and as have a s/c above it didnt really want to take that off!..still wont be doing it for awhile yet...

re the belt..yep they gave me wrong bloody one..211 teeth not 209..tooo late once off though..and as supplier 4000miles away i guess i wont be shouting at them...oh well,lesson learnt,buy genuine..

oh..and the belt i took off looked a1..sigh,still had no history on engine,and water pump date coded 1995,so may have been original.though i dought it as aftermarket sealent on pump..never know,dont care.job done.

thanks for help everyone..
 
anyway have u compared new belt with old as that is only way u will know if its too long
which should be done before fitment anyway
doesnt sound like a professional mechanic shop heheheheh

bloody box for timing had 1uz-fe all over it...belt looked same length when held up to it,..

professional mechanic shop..bloody git you is shideshow..LOL..

happy new year to you's all..

regards zen.london england
 
I did this job myself too. It was easy enough but time consuming. The only pain in the ass was the crank nut. I ended up making myself a tool to hold the pulley.

03062011063.jpg
 
Timing Belt and Waterpump

timing marks are totally different and belt is wrong length..ahhhhhhhhhhhhh

car is at work blocking up workshop..have to get it sorted asap before hols over or boss go mad!!ie tomorrow!!!

engine is 1uz-fe 1995...dont know what from but UK model..

stripped it down,and what a barsta5d job..everything stuck,getting water pump off took hours!the thermostate housing (ali) bit just would not come out of inlet manifold...

so 7hrs later putting back together discovered noticed before,but thought must be making mistake (original belt had no markings) that the cam timing marks are not at 11 and 1 clock,but at 10 and 2..there ARE factory marks on backing plates behind cam sprockets to align on to...and they line up with cam shaft sprocket marks..(i marked it all up before removing belt)

and then...fitting up belt discovered belt is toooooooooooooo long...its 2 teeth to big..

anyone got correct part numbers/install instructions for 1995 engine (skinny rods)

also tensioner is different lenght.(body that extends downwards)
help!!
Jan Venter from SA

I found the tutoral exelent there was something small that differed butr i sorted it easy. Used the original and expensive belt and all the markings corresponded exactly like the tutoral. It is not a 10 to 18 hr job, its much easier, but then im wirking on the engine on a workbence. Thanks
 
I did this job myself too. It was easy enough but time consuming. The only pain in the ass was the crank nut. I ended up making myself a tool to hold the pulley.

03062011063.jpg
Jan Venter,

Next time you want to undo the crank pully nut, put a longish bar with socket spanner in the 10 o clock position then hit the starter. Make sure the bar wil hit the stop you supplied and nothing else.;)
 
funny how toyota prices vary round the world
what did u pay for 1uz timing belt from toyota
i paid 40 or 50 bucks for a genuine belt from toyota afew years ago
some might think thats expensive but i think its bloody cheap
general servicing parts from toyota are not to bad these days
 
Jan Venter,

Next time you want to undo the crank pully nut, put a longish bar with socket spanner in the 10 o clock position then hit the starter. Make sure the bar wil hit the stop you supplied and nothing else.;)

And to do it up again to the correct torque?? :P
 


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