ARP part no for head studs

[krayn]

Does anyone know for sure what the arp part number is to sit the 1uz is?
Ive got 2 sets to suit the 3sgte but has a different thread that goes into the block. The length is right, just the tread pitch is wrong. I suspect this kit is intended for an iron block as the treads in this kit is finer than the tread in the 1uz block.
Any one looking for a cheap set of 3sgte head studs? Asking $180 ea.
Thanks Kris.

 

[krayn]

Kris
For the Toyota IUZFE KIT # 151-5405 X 2 and each kit has 10-studs / nuts & washers that are 4.950 long with a thread pitch of 10mm x 1.25.
RonF


Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 12:03 AM
To: info
Subject: Website Submitted Question from Kris

Question Number: 62165

Kris -




Australia

Submitted: 4/22/2013 @ 3:04:09

Hi,
Im after the part number for head studs to suit a toyota v8, 1uz-fe, 1988 thru 1996.
I have tried a set that suits a toyota 3sgte but the thread that goes into the block is too finer thread, but the length is right. The v8 block is an alloy type. Any idea on a stud that would go close to fitting. Thanks kris allan

Website Question

 

[krayn]

I got a reply back from arp.

kris
For the Toyota IUZFE KIT # 151-5405 X 2 and each kit has 10-studs / nuts & washers that are 4.950 long with a thread pitch of 10mm x 1.25.
RonF


Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 12:03 AM
To: info
Subject: Website Submitted Question from Kris

Question Number: 62165

Kris -




Australia

Submitted: 4/22/2013 @ 3:04:09

Hi,
Im after the part number for head studs to suit a toyota v8, 1uz-fe, 1988 thru 1996.
I have tried a set that suits a toyota 3sgte but the thread that goes into the block is too finer thread, but the length is right. The v8 block is an alloy type. Any idea on a stud that would go close to fitting. Thanks kris allan

Website Question

 

[turboandrew]

Does the same p/n work for 2UZ and 3UZ?

 

[stevieg]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-151-5405

that part number comes up as a main stud kit for a ford duratec engine?

 

[4U2QUIK]

Ford duratec main studs?

 

[krayn]

Yeah seems strange. The advice on part number came from arp.

 

[StavFC]

I'd love to know the truth on this! Everyone seems to keep info so close to their chest on these cars, and I'd like some too.

 

[krayn]

"I'd love to know the truth on this! Everyone seems to keep info so close to their chest on these cars, and I'd like some too. "

Yep thats what Im finding too.

Now im getting a different part number from arp when I questioned the thread pitch that goes into the block....
Seems the part number he quoted only had 1.25 thread pitch both ends.

New part number is 203-5407.. it is 5.00 long with 1.5mm thread one end and 1.35 on the nut end. Its still a main stud kit.
If there was a spec page on all there bolts it would make it soooo much easyer.
Cheers kris

 

[krayn]

Studs turned up today. They measure up good at this stage..

 

[krayn]

Photos did not download in last post.....

 

[BlackUZZ31]

how does it go under the cam gears for clearance?

 

[krayn]

I will know latter this week. Will update then. I suspect it will need shortening.

 

[krayn]

Got to measure the studs with a 70th head gasket.. As expected the intake cam gear fowles on the stud by 5.3 mm. There is 6.4mm of thread above the nut. Should fit with a little trim. All other threads on exhaust side have 1 thread above the nut before torqing down, and intake side have about 5 threads. looking good so far I think. Anyone have suggestions on how to shorten the studs? Cheers Kris

 

[BlackUZZ31]

I would reduce the nub on the bottom of the stud if the block is blind tapped (or just get a tap and make it blind tapped)

also maybe find some thinner hardened washers (pick-a-part is good for this) to drop the nut down a bit

 

[XR8tt]

Yep thinner washer off another alloy motor !!

 

[krayn]

Thanks for that. Will start the search for a thinner washer. 1uz head bolt washers are the same as the arp ones.

 

[BlackUZZ31]

the other option is to take a little out of that pocket with an end mill, but I have not sectioned a head to know how much meat there is in that area, If you could drop the seat even 1mm I would be happy with at least a couple of threads out of the nut...

 

[krayn]

Im looking into that. Seeing my machinist today about milling ti down a few mm and lowering the thread in the block to get the stud down another 6 mm

 

[krayn]

I decided to try just loweing the thread in the block. In standard form the thread starts aprox 11.35mm past the machined surface of the block and continues for aprox 55mm. There is only 25mm of thread on the stud, so there is heaps more thread in the block below the stud. I got a 11.5mm drill in my cordless and removed 6mm of thread from the block. This allowed the stud to be lowerd 6mm in the block. Trial fitted the head and there is 1mm clearance to the cam gear. Once torqued down there will be at least one threadsticking out of the nut. Hope this makes sence.