adjustable cam gears for the 1UZFE
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Don't know if they exist - I doubt it very very much - but because exhaust cam is driven off the intake cam by a center gear it would be most difficult to change it. A few degrees on a 1UZ-FE won't make much difference. My longer duration bigger lift exhaust cams (mild grind) didn't make much difference - say 4-5 rwkW at best. Engine does sound better but not much in it.
I wouldn't bother touching the cams at all unless it was replacing both of them with fairly wild grinds. Even then bottom end torque would suffer and wouldn't suit a heavy auto car. Perhaps on a light weight manual car this would be great - but not for me. I haven't seen anything that makes much difference on a 1UZ-FE except for a blower.
I have seen a 1UZ-FE on an engine dyno with stock Toyota ECU used as a base run. After two days tuning a custom EMS system on the engine dyno the guys finally managed to equal the stock Toyota ECU power output.
It's these sort of mixed result stories that cast a doubt over mods. Not like the LS1 boys where this equals that. Intake, headers, then rest of the exhaust, then blower seems to be the best bang for buck. Not much else seems to have taken the 1UZ-FE world by storm.
I wouldn't bother touching the cams at all unless it was replacing both of them with fairly wild grinds. Even then bottom end torque would suffer and wouldn't suit a heavy auto car. Perhaps on a light weight manual car this would be great - but not for me. I haven't seen anything that makes much difference on a 1UZ-FE except for a blower.
I have seen a 1UZ-FE on an engine dyno with stock Toyota ECU used as a base run. After two days tuning a custom EMS system on the engine dyno the guys finally managed to equal the stock Toyota ECU power output.
It's these sort of mixed result stories that cast a doubt over mods. Not like the LS1 boys where this equals that. Intake, headers, then rest of the exhaust, then blower seems to be the best bang for buck. Not much else seems to have taken the 1UZ-FE world by storm.
camshaft guy
New Member
Adjustable cam gears are available here in NZ, can find you a price.
Agreed, cam timing won't make a lot of differance unless you are using a much higher spec cam setup than stock.
we did a set of cams in a stock engine and gained 70hp @ the engine with torque gains everywhere from 3000 on, but this was with a 'Link' fully adjustable computer.
Agreed, cam timing won't make a lot of differance unless you are using a much higher spec cam setup than stock.
we did a set of cams in a stock engine and gained 70hp @ the engine with torque gains everywhere from 3000 on, but this was with a 'Link' fully adjustable computer.
i have been told that on a PC dyno there is a 30 kw gain by advancing the cams by 1 tooth. ( i think it was advance i would go and forgett the important bit)
It is not a hard thing to try i am tempted if i do it will be with a before and after dyno run. does any one think it is worth it and would it be advance or retard.
It is not a hard thing to try i am tempted if i do it will be with a before and after dyno run. does any one think it is worth it and would it be advance or retard.
BlownV8
New Member
A bit of interesting info for you guys on this subject. From what i could tell, and correct me if i am wrong, but there are 48 teeth on the cam pulley for the timing belt. This means that 360 / 48 = 7.5 degrees. There fore, each tooth represents 7.5 degrees of timing. In Julian Edgars 21st century performance book, he recommends retarding the std timing by 8 degrees to see a good gain, even with stock cams, manifolds,.........
I have just plugged in the std data for a 1uz into Desktop Dyno 2003, and got a std figure of 253HP @ 5000RPM and 312 FT LBs of torque @ 3500RPM. Just by changing the installed cam timing value to -7.5 degrees, i got an increase to 269HP @ 5500RPM but a slight decrease in torque to 309 FT LBs of torque @ 3500RPM
Another thing i did notice was that the torque curve flatened out a lot, especially above 3500RPM, and the power curve lifted in the tail end, without losing any down low Torque of HP.
If anybody is interested, i can email you the screen shots of the values, and the torque/power curves.
Blown
I have just plugged in the std data for a 1uz into Desktop Dyno 2003, and got a std figure of 253HP @ 5000RPM and 312 FT LBs of torque @ 3500RPM. Just by changing the installed cam timing value to -7.5 degrees, i got an increase to 269HP @ 5500RPM but a slight decrease in torque to 309 FT LBs of torque @ 3500RPM
Another thing i did notice was that the torque curve flatened out a lot, especially above 3500RPM, and the power curve lifted in the tail end, without losing any down low Torque of HP.
If anybody is interested, i can email you the screen shots of the values, and the torque/power curves.
Blown
I have just talked to my mates at the dyno i am off for a before dyno run this afternoon and i will chabge my timing on the weekend and run it again on monday or tuesday. I will keep you all Posted.
if any one wants to give me sujestions on woh to loosen the tension off so i can slip the belt round one tooth i am listening.
BlownV8 can you post or email those screen shots. ( you are correct on the 7.5 degrees)
the other thing is are you sure retarding is the way to go?
if any one wants to give me sujestions on woh to loosen the tension off so i can slip the belt round one tooth i am listening.
BlownV8 can you post or email those screen shots. ( you are correct on the 7.5 degrees)
the other thing is are you sure retarding is the way to go?
i only shouted cause the caps was on and i was too lazy to re type.
well hopefully Blownv8 can put advance into his desktop dyno and tell us more. if you steped keyways could be used to give fine tunning. i have cheap dyno acess so i am keen to try if it looks promising on the dyno next week.
blownv8 what does the desktop dyno give as the best location .
cheers
stirling
well hopefully Blownv8 can put advance into his desktop dyno and tell us more. if you steped keyways could be used to give fine tunning. i have cheap dyno acess so i am keen to try if it looks promising on the dyno next week.
blownv8 what does the desktop dyno give as the best location .
cheers
stirling
Alright i just got back from the dyno and some one has opened the gate and 25 ponies have got out. Fuel may be the culpret.
last time at the dyno (final tune) saw 225.7 @5700
today 6 months on
the first run saw 198 rwhp
a air filter clean and slight adjustment to the throttle cable saw 204rwhp
the HP has moved up the rev range very slightley.
the only things that have been doe is an oil change air filter has got dirtier and a new starter motor.
it was tunned on shell optimax this run was on BP ultimate so before we go looking for problems i am looking for somewhere to dump 30 litres of ultimate, and fill up with optimax.
other options are:
Cats are blocked,
plugs are fowled,
wiring has been heat effected and spark is breaking down,
fuel filter is dirty,( but the fuel curve on dyno seems fine)
majour damage, head gasket, valve seal, piston ring leak???
so there is a bit of a delay on the results i hoped to give on the cam timing.
If any one has ideas/ sujestions drop me a line
last time at the dyno (final tune) saw 225.7 @5700
today 6 months on
the first run saw 198 rwhp
a air filter clean and slight adjustment to the throttle cable saw 204rwhp
the HP has moved up the rev range very slightley.
the only things that have been doe is an oil change air filter has got dirtier and a new starter motor.
it was tunned on shell optimax this run was on BP ultimate so before we go looking for problems i am looking for somewhere to dump 30 litres of ultimate, and fill up with optimax.
other options are:
Cats are blocked,
plugs are fowled,
wiring has been heat effected and spark is breaking down,
fuel filter is dirty,( but the fuel curve on dyno seems fine)
majour damage, head gasket, valve seal, piston ring leak???
so there is a bit of a delay on the results i hoped to give on the cam timing.
If any one has ideas/ sujestions drop me a line
Hmm a new starter.
There may be your problem.
To replace the starter you had to remove the manifold. Go back and double check every bolt/union and fitting as I would expect this is where the ponies went. It is easy to leave something off or block a hoe or union without realising.
First lesson in fault analysis is look for what has changed since the machine (or whatever) worked.
There may be your problem.
To replace the starter you had to remove the manifold. Go back and double check every bolt/union and fitting as I would expect this is where the ponies went. It is easy to leave something off or block a hoe or union without realising.
First lesson in fault analysis is look for what has changed since the machine (or whatever) worked.
BlownV8
New Member
Here are the results from Dyno 2003. There are 2 graphs. 1 for the comaprison between HP figures, and 1 between torque figures. Was too messy to have them on the same graph with the same axis's.
Just so you know, there are 4 comparisons on data. There is a legend at the bottom to tell you which ones are which, and what the lines look like, but i will give a bit better description.
1UZ Stock - Is just that, a std 1UZ-FE.
1UZ Stock + 7.5 cam - is the std engine with the cams advanced 7.5 degrees, or one tooth onthe pulley.
1UZ Stock + -7.5 cam - is the std engine with the cams retarded 7.5 degrees.
1UZ Stock + -7.5 cam + Exhaust - is the std engine, cams retarded 7.5 degrees plus extractors and flowing exhaust with mufflers.
Here are the diagrams
Please let me know if you need explination, but you can see that retarding the timing makes power, advancing decreases power. Almost sounds funny to type.
Just so you know, there are 4 comparisons on data. There is a legend at the bottom to tell you which ones are which, and what the lines look like, but i will give a bit better description.
1UZ Stock - Is just that, a std 1UZ-FE.
1UZ Stock + 7.5 cam - is the std engine with the cams advanced 7.5 degrees, or one tooth onthe pulley.
1UZ Stock + -7.5 cam - is the std engine with the cams retarded 7.5 degrees.
1UZ Stock + -7.5 cam + Exhaust - is the std engine, cams retarded 7.5 degrees plus extractors and flowing exhaust with mufflers.
Here are the diagrams
Please let me know if you need explination, but you can see that retarding the timing makes power, advancing decreases power. Almost sounds funny to type.
