adapting supra 6spd to 1uz

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

R-Jay

Member
ok, my worst fears have come true....

Dellow and CRS don't sell adaptors for the getrag v160.

anyone know where i might be able to get an adaptor for it???

BTW, for those who don't already know, the getrag 6speed box in the supra doesn't use a seperate bellhousing... it's integrated.

So, if anyone knows of someone who has done a 6spd 1uz conversion, please let me know some details so i might get an adaptor for my project.
 
Basically, you have to cut 10-20mm off the V160, measure up how much you will need to put back on to fit the 1uz tail end, cut this amount off the 1uz auto bellhousing, and weld it to the V160.

You have to make sure everything is perfectly straight.

I don't think there will ever been an off the shelf part for this.

If you aren't confident in doing it, send it all over to perth, my machinist told me he'd do it for me when I bought a V160.
Dunno how much it would cost, but I can guarentee you it won't be cheap
 
Rod Millen in the states is the only one that I can think of off the top of my head that ive seen do it, and they made an adapter and welded it on i htink
Im sure someone must know more about this than I do
(just like that ^^^)

Logan
 
peewee, i was thinking the same thing exactly... i have yet to ask my machinist.. but i dunno if he's willing at all....

any idea how much your machinist would be looking at charging for that kinda work???

the other way i was thinking was to actually make an adaptor between the box and engine... but that would mean you would need some way to extend either the v160 or 1uz's input/output shafts
 
At a very rough guess, it would be about $1000, but its hard to quote without physically looking at the box.
 
a grand isnt as much as i thought it would be... for awhile i was scared, hehe.

well, i think i better check with my own machinist first.... something tells me this is going to be useful to other people if i manage to do this right.
 
Considering the only V160 ive seen for sale lately has a starting bid of $4000 $NZ
I dont think Ill be lining up to get one done as much as Id like to

Logan
 
David... something tells me 3/4" isnt very strong... well, not strong enough for my plans...

i just rang my local engineering/machinist guy and he said $650 for an adaptor... 60mm... now that should be plenty strong... also gotta have the flywheel modified to make up for the adjusted offset....

in the end, worse case scenario, engine might have to be moved forward a touch, or better yet, have the gearbox moved back a touch....

best case scenario, nothing has to be moved as it lines up with adaptor or is near enough....
 
I think I remember posting how they did it in the thread under IS430
They cut the mounting tags with bolt holes off the V160 and then welded the adapter to it which they cnc machined and drilled to suit the 1UZ
(Ill go and try find it rather than just trying to rmember off the top of my head)

Logan
 
LEXUSV8NZ, yeah that's exactly what they did (i remember from reading the old post, hehe)...

personally, i'd hate myself if i ever chopped up a v160 like that... so im going the cheaper and easier way... just use an adaptor and modify other parts to make up for the adjusted offset from the extra length gained by the adaptor
 
thanks guys... seems like i've got my setup sorted... let you all know when it gets done.... not fast enough to make an appearance at the australian lextreme meet though...
 
tow it? hehe, i can drive it... my engine/gearbox setup will be assembled on a stand before it all goes in at once. I'm trying to keep the supra off the road for as little as possible...
 
The 6 speed bellhousing is removeable, it just happens to be more than just the bellhousing. It includes the front seal and other bits. The bellhousing is available in the states discounted for about $450. I am going the route of chopping off the 1.25" flange on there and replacing with a 1.25" or so flange CNC's to match the 1UZ. The hardest part has been getting the 1UZ flange in a CAD program. If anyone already had this, it would save me a ton of time.
 
Ta,

Wouldn't it be easier to trace the 1UZ flange pattern on the alloy and have it cut or cut it yourself with a good jigsaw or band saw?

You can pretty up the cut easilly enought with a grinde and repolish it if you want.

I would only CNC the pattern if I planned on making more than 10 of them.
 
I have been thinking about that. Do you think a bandsaw would go through 1.125" aluminum? Maybe it will. I guess I could price the aluminum plate locally an maybe get started.
 
TA,

Have a chat with your local Alloy fabricator.

You could always collect the plate, draw the profile you want cut and have him cut it.

You don't need 1.25" if you use a high grade alloy. Don't use just any old crap. At least 1.25 shouldn't distort much.

You will need to work out how you are going to ensure it is centered on the bell housing. Unless you have a jig of some description to centralise the plate on the bellhousing I would do as follows:

I would drill a hole in the plate the same size as the spigot on the 1UZ torque converter to centralise the plate. I would then drill the two dowel holes to locate the plate on the bellhousing. Then I would drill the engine/bell bolt pattern so you have that side of it right. Theses holes are easy. When the plate is bolted to the 1UZ bell simply drill thru thee bell mounting holes and you have it.

Once you have that side done I would then cut the outer profile and leave the centre of the plate solid. If you do this you can use the spigot shaft out of the gearbox to fit into the existing hole you have for the torque converter (it may need a little bush machining) to line up the plate before welding. The tolerence here is very tight. The spigot can accomodate (perhaps) .5mm out of alignment.

To line up the plate on the bell housing I would mount the gearbox on it's tail and very carefull position the plate.

If you wanted to cut the inner profile before welding you would need to weld some tags on both bell housing and plate so you could (accurately) bolt them together to ensure it is aligned after cutting.

I would be tempted to weld the plate to the bell housing before cutting (using the spigot to ensure it is aligned) the profile then cutting it after welding. Even if I had to use an angle grinder. If anyone can see the inside profile once it is assembled they are better than you or me.

A tip if grinding alloy. Use a masonary grinding wheel as wheels designed for steel do not work well on alloy, but masonary wheels eat alloy really well.

Good luck we will all be interested in how it goes.
 


Back
Top