A few Noob questions, if you don't mind?

[GeeBee]

Hi guys!

I'm at the very start of my 1UZFE journey at the moment (looking for a donor car to supply engine and 'box), but I like to research things heavily before I start as it leads to less mistakes later on. FYI the engine will be keeping the stock auto box, will not need catalytic converters and will be going in a late sixties/early seventies Reliant Scimitar SE5. So, questions:

1) I've heard the stock engine management can cope with a small amount of boost. How much can I push it on stock CR with intercooled turbo/turbos?

2) How much can I push it on stock management with bigger injectors, and how big can I go and still maintain a reasonable idle?

3) How much can I push it if I lower the CR via thicker head gaskets (most likely MLS)?

4) When using turbos, do you use blow through or draw through for the air mass meter? To me, and for the car it's going to go in, this might mean the difference between single or twin turbos, as space will be very tight.

5) This is going to be done over a long time on a shoestring budget (wife is NOT a petrolhead), hence going for turbos rather than a blower. I can fabricate steel no problem, but don't have the facilities to weld or machine alloy, so can't fab a blower manifold or afford an off the shelf one.

Megasquirt may be a possibility a few years down the line but is definitely not happening yet so can be discounted for now. Besides, the back axle (salisbury 4HA) on a Scimitar is only good for about 400bhp, so I'm told. I've yet to find out if that's at the crank or wheels but have heard of one here in the UK running 10s so I'm guessing that's at the wheels

Sorry for all the questions, but I thought if I asked fairly precise ones then I might get fairly precise answers!

 

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi.
Welcome to the forum, that's a lot of questions, search is your best friend.

Alan.

 

[ruishy1]

Stock ecu can cope with 315cc 7mge green injectors, and about 7 psi of boost easily enough. Using a rising rate FPR to deal with fuel flow needs on boost. Although a cheap piggy back would be easier.

You can get to 400bhp without an MLS, so unless your engine is worn leave the standard one there for now.

AFM im not 100 percent but on my m112 conversion is was drawthrough so would image turbo would be the same.

if you want an m112 from a jag on there let me know I can help you, I can weld ally etc and have some jigs from a conversion I did a while ago.

 

[GeeBee]

Thanks for the reply, Ruishy1- most helpful

I have to say, I would prefer to go S/C as there's nothing cooler than a blower through the bonnet. It's all down to cost, ultimately. There's a Jag specialist near me who also breaks them, so might be able to get one for reasonable money with my trade connections (I'm an RAC patrol).

It's good to know that I can leave most things stock for the power levels I want- that saves a fortune.

Just need to start saving my pennies now.....

 

[ruishy1]

I can help with the supercharger thing, shouldn't cost more than 5-600 quid tbh.
My last one cost me about 250 quid in ally and machining work.

 

[Zuffen]

Watch out milling heads as when you alter the valve timing as you shave the the head or block.

You may loose more than you potentially gain.

Cam timing can't be altered/adjusted, due to the design of the drive sprockets.

 

[GeeBee]

ruishy1, is that all in or just for the manifold? Certainly sounds favourite at that price.

zuffen, I have no intention of skimming the block or the heads other than for a head gasket failure. There is simply no need if you are simply changing the gasket because you want to rather than because of a problem. It's also counter-productive as all you'll do is raise the compression, not lower it. On a budget build I'm not going to be putting $1100 of pistons in it!

This car is likely to do less than 3000 miles a year and only occasionally get into full boost (when the wife isn't in the car as she has a tendency to scream and it gets annoying after a while).
In fact, it's likely to spend most of it's time skipping between villages getting held up by all the myopic old farts that live around here- none of which ever exceeds 42mph, and that's after a mile of glacial acceleration

 

[Lleksam]

This car is likely to do less than 3000 miles a year and only occasionally get into full boost (when the wife isn't in the car as she has a tendency to scream and it gets annoying after a while).

Know what you mean my wife sort of turns grabs hold of door like its going to fall off and kicks the heater under the dash, I'm convinced that's why the heater in Mitsubishi Delica dose not work, so now I'm going to put a Blown 1UZ-FE in it so she will kick it harder in the hope that she will make it work again

Steve

 

[GeeBee]

Lol! I used to have a Delica- they don't go fast enough to make anyone scream! Be lovely with a V8 in, though.

 

[GeeBee]

Just had a disaster with the daily driver lunching it's gearbox, neccesitating the purchase of another hack. This has set my plans back a few months. Bugger! On the plus side, I've discovered a friend has an XJR and will hopefully be willing to measure the intake manifolds for me. Given that they're both 4.0 V8s I'm willing to bet the port openings aren't far out.
The other option I've been pondering for a low boost motor is a piar of TD04-15G turbos. Stock on a Volvo 850 and will happily produce 20lbs of air at a pressure ratio of 1.5 and be right in their sweet spot, so that's another option. Also, I can buy brand new genuine Mitsubishi CHRAs locally for £270 each should one fail. With turbos though, you have the added expense of all the intercooler piping and intercooler itself

 

[Lleksam]

Lol! I used to have a Delica- they don't go fast enough to make anyone scream! Be lovely with a V8 in, though.

mine is a odd one, a 2wd 2.4 petrol


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