1UZFE 1997 240sx s14a

[watty]

Here is a lot of the detail that I copied in from another forum. It should help give a head start to anyone attempting this project.

Currently, I have put over 2000 miles on my setup including hard launches at the track and long drives around town. It is great and was worth every penny.

I'm not sure of the rules on posting other sites on here, but if anyone is interested in reading through the original posting, here is the link: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=271939
Moderators, if this is a problem, I will gladly remove it.

If there are questions, feel free to email me at [email protected]

Thanks
Watty

Happy reading:

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Here is my introduction post for the new project. The KA supercharger kit is sold so I can finally put some money into this. We are doing an N/A 1UZFE mated to the KA transmission. Eventually I want to upgrade this to a Z32 tranny, but I have a couple of these laying around. The motor mounts will be finished by tomorrow evening and then the wiring begins. The goal is to have this running by NOPI Nationals. I am using a Megasquirt I 3.0 PCB to control the whole thing. I am going to attempt to use the dual dizzys and trick the megasquirt into a "wasted spark" setup switching between the separate coils. Anyway, I just wanted to give a quick blurb and some pictures. There will be more to come.

Watty




















Hey guys, sorry for the late response. I have quite literally been killing myself in the garage for the last two weeks trying to get this thing in the car and running for NOPI. It sadly didn't make it. I got down to about an hour and a half before we were supposed to leave on Friday for Atlanta and had to call it quits. I was sick and running on 3 hours of sleep. I will be putting up some more pics and information this week now that I'm not rushing anymore to get it done by a certain date.

Here is a teaser pic:








There are more of the install and mounts. I will get around to putting all of this together. Now I've got to get the Megasquirt to play nice with everything else. Also, the engine bay has not been cleaned up and the throttle body is going to go through either a major shave down or replacement. We'll see.

watty i cannot wait to see this s14 driving around town, tell keith i said hey if you see him

I should see him some time in the next week. I'll tell him you say hi.


Thanks for the interest,
Watty




IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! It is running and moved under its own power last night. Granted, I only moved it back and forth in the garage. I have a heater line hose that has a hole in it. So that is next on the list. I have to adjust the timing and then it's time for street tuning. YAY!!!!!! The clutch has ended up very SHORT. It's not undrivable, but I should have quick reaction times at the track. :biggrin

I know I haven't posted up more details yet, but I've been more concerned with getting it running. It feels as though a huge weight has been lifted off of me. Time for a relaxing night of beer to clear my head. It is bad when you have dreams about fuel maps and enrichment tables.

More to come,
Watty


Here is an email I sent yesterday. It should help with most things.


"Hello,

I am more than happy to help you out with this. The adapter plate is actually pretty simple. It is a 3/8" thick piece of mild steel. I happened to use a plasma cutter, but any way you can get it cut will work. I used thick paper to make a template by placing the flywheel on it and cutting an oversized hole. Then I mounted the flywheel and made a rubbing of the holes in the block. Next we drilled out those holes and the center section from the plate. You will need to countersink the holes for the bolts to the block. After that is done, you bolt the plate to the block. You will have to grind the starter bolts a little to make clearance for the plate to be flush.

Next, you need to make a bushing that is the size of the inner bore of the crank and the outer bore of a factory Nissan pilot bushing. We turned down a piece of stainless rod that was laying around. After that is tapped into place, you can mount the clutch and flywheel.

The flywheel does need to have the holes milled outwards radially about 10 to 15mm. I don't remember off the top of my head the exact measurements.

Once the clutch and flywheel are mounted, you can slide the tranny into position. This is not the easiest thing to do the first time. Once it all lines up, you just use something to go through the holes in the tranny and make marks. We used a drill bit with some tape on it so it fit the hole centered. Drill and tap these marks. You can use automotive studs or cut up a piece of all-thread to make your own. Now your transmission and motor can be mounted together.

As for motor mounts, I have some pictures that will explain way more than I can in words, but they are VERY easy to make. And if you want to move the motor back, I think you can bolt it straight to the crossmember. Not 100% on that though.

That should be a start and something to think about. Also, you will have to remake part of one the headers. It depends on whether or not your car is left or right hand drive. The fabrication isn't that bad, but you will need access to a few tools that can be hard to come by like a lathe and mill.

Thanks,
Watty"

As far as the radiator goes, I bought a 3" aluminum from a guy on here, but it was about an inch too tall. I'm not sure if there is a difference between the s14 and s14a. Either that or I got an s13 version.

Watty

 

[watty]

Part #2


More Pics:

Engine Mounts:








Tranny Adapter:








Hope that helps some of you.

Also, you can check out: http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q260/wattydchi/
There are more pics here.

Here I go back to the garage. Damn alternator isn't wired correctly; so I'm getting no charging! This is a stupid problem to have. I can make and swap everything else, but it is one of the basic car parts holding me up. Stupid, stupid, stupid. :slap

Watty



The alternator is fixed and the car is on the road. I was a little worried this morning because it was running off of four cylinders. Turns out the wire controlling the second coil came loose from the connector. Now that's fixed and the car pulls hard.


As far as cost goes, I've got about $2000 in the whole thing including buying the motor. I did consider using the Z32 tranny, but I was going for a budget build and the KA tranny will hold the power of this motor. It runs very smooth and the peak torque isn't until 4400rpm. This helps in the "not breaking things" department. It is soooo quite. I can be at full throttle with the windows down and still hold a conversation.

If you are considering an M112, have you seen the kits that make it a straight bolt on affair? That motor will be amazing with a supercharger. You should be able to do about 8psi on the stock motor. That'll put you in the 450hp range give or take.

I am using the stock header on the passenger side and part of the one on the drivers side. From there we ran dual piping into a dual in single out Edelbrock muffler.

The cool thing is that with the A/C gone it weighs exactly the same as a KA. The handling is not comprimised at all. The whole project has been fairly easy for something of this caliber. We started at the beginning of July working one day a week on it, then about two days a week in August. This month we killed ourselves for two weeks before NOPI and then about four days since then. Now it is on the road just waiting for some more tuning. Right now I am hitting afr's of around 10.2 under full load. I'm shooting for afr's of around 12.5. This should free up some more power and make the response even quicker.

Check out my photobucket site. It will show you some more details of the build.
http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q260/wattydchi/

Watty

hows the throttle pedal feel?

when I drive the Lexus v8 cars the pedal feels verys tiff, I liken it to stepping on a brick, feels like a mercedes I hate it... I like a smooth easy to push down and modulate pedal....

The throttle pedal feels just like a stock 240. I would assume the pedal feel is partly the lexus design. I have also noticed that automatic cars tend to have a stiffer gas pedal. Maybe it's just me. We also made a new push rod for the clutch slave cylinder which makes the clutch feel like the stock KA.

just wondering, what is the breaking point for the ka tranny hp/trq wise? and your running a mega squirt right, how hard was it to get everything right. i need to figure out what i am going to run for a ecu/ ems/ wtf/ we. i just ordered the sc toady, eaton m112 with a port and polish job supposedly supposed to add like 30-50hp, came off an 04 cobra and cost me 800. and the bolt on kits are great but i can build a manifold for cheaper. and i am going to be running 500cc injectors from an rx7. i'm gonna play with the screws once i get the sc, see if i can get them to flow a few more cfm. ooo... this is gonna be funn!!!

Megasquirt has been fairly easy to set up. Most of the complications came from the board being set for an optical sensor and having to reset the jumpers for vr. Megasquirt makes way more sense after you start playing with it. I do recommend buying and extra ignitor or two because if you flash the firmware without unpluging the coils, you will spilt one or both into two or more pieces. It is quite impressive actually. I have a base file to start from that will make life easier. This will help with some of the basic settings.

Sounds cool on the s/c setup. 500cc injectors seem a bit large to me off the top of my head, but you will have plenty of room to go up. Be sure to check the rear bearings in the supercharger. I've known of several that have had rear bearing failure.


Watty


Sounds good. I am using an exedy Z32 clutch disc. It is close to stock, but seemed a little better quality. The clutch plate is a stock MR2 pressure plate. I will upgrade these at a later date. I just didn't see the need right now at this power level. I am also using the stock driveshaft. The power characteristics of the 1UZ make it easy to keep all of the stock stuff. It is a very balanced engine that gives very little vibration even though I almost have it solid mounted. And the torque is smooth and doesn't fully come in until about 4400rpm. It is nice to have full torque right after shifting. The car really comes alive when shifting into second gear.

Just shoot me an email if you want to talk about anything.

Watty

 

[jdchmiel]

I am debating attempting to make an adapter plate basically the same way you have described.
My concern is if it is not PERFECT then the tranny input shaft and possibly the engine main bearings will be getting some abnormal forces.
How much imperfection in this method can the clutch disc and the spline mount accomidate?
should i be concerned with this or am i just overly parranoid?

 

[watty]

What I did was leave a little slack in the tranny studs. This allowed me to insert the shaft through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing. After that, I supported the transmission in roughly a zero load position and tightened everything down. I haven't had any problems so far. I think that since I'm getting support from two concentric points, everything pretty much lines up because of basic geometry. Then I just removed the load on the input shaft bearing.


This may not be the ideal way, but it does seem to work.

Watty

 

[jdchmiel]

Well I will be doing thius with a transaxle from a camry solara. I guess I can tilt my motor on its nose and then lay the tranny on it with the flywheel / clutch installed and then there is no force on the input shaft.
the only thing is, there is no pilot bearing for many fwd transaxles.. so just the clutch disc would be lining it up for me.. and then that assumes the alignemebt tool has put the disc in the perfect center already..

 

[watty]

If there is no pilot bushing, what does the alignment tool slide into? Does the crank just have a small alignment hole? It has to go into something, otherwise you are just guessing on clutch alignment. I'm intrigued. Keep me posted.

Watty

 

[jdchmiel]

it has a small hole. like just under an iunch diameter if i recall off the top of my head.
I am looking into following your method, and was looking for aluminum plate to use, but then am second guessing if aluminum is strong enough. Any suggestions? I like the idea of aluminum because I can machine it so much easier than mild steel...