1UZ starting and idle problems

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jonossiksilvia

New Member
hi all hope everyone had a awesome break over the new year etc.

being have issues with my 1uz starting and idling have so far spent 2 full days on this problem so far
google has been searched non stop.

it will not start unless ya foot is on the gas pedal and once ya have got it started it wont idle by itself for bout a minute.

i have removed the air control valve on front of intake manifold and gave it a good clean and when fitting a back up made sure the plunger is right in - great started easy and idled how i would think is should being cold. turn it off and started again and back to old problems

next up i got the truck warm up to operating temp and adjusted the tps to set the revs at 750rpm - sweet idles awesome, revs clean, no hesitation when off the gas pedal - just drops back down to 750rpm.

turn it off and try starting again - yes it starts and idles perfect. or so i thought

cold start again - wont start or rev cleanly wait till warmed up and guess wat the revs have reset itself to 500rpm ish

this time i manually set idle with throttle stop screw on left hand side of tb between traction unit and throttle pulleys to 750rpm - revs cleanly etc.

try restarting and perfect start and idle, wait till cold and it becomes a dog to start again and wont idle - wait till warm and the revs have adjusted itself back to approx 500rpm again

questions are:

1) how do i fix the starting and idling properly?
2) im guessing its the ecu resetting the idle every time? - have constant on ecu wired up
3) is it possible i may have missed a wire when i done conversion?
4) when adjusting the tps the range of adjustment is only approx 300rpm - this normal?

im really at a brick wall on this problem and really need it sorted so i can take it for cert.

any help small or big would be greatly thanked.
 
Who wired it?
What ECU number / pin configuration?
Series one or series two motor?
What fuel pump?
What fuel pressure is it running at?
Does it have a check light?
Does it bring up any Check codes?
Has it had a diagnostic connector wired and has it had a scanner put over it?
Can you take a couple of photos of the engine bay and post them up so we can see if there is anything basic connected incorrectly on the motor.
Have you done a compression test?
Have you checked over the ignition system?
Have you checked for air leaks?
Have you checked the ignition timing? at idle? and revs?
Does it start if some engine start is added when cold?


There is only one way to set up the TPS correctly. I use the scanner to get the TP setting to 0 and the idle switch on at idle and switching off with the throttle plate slightly opened. This can be done manually. I do it using a .25mm feeler gauge under the "true" throttle stop (its under the throttle body) and set the idle switch off and check it goes on when the feeler gauge is removed. I then check it with a multimeter when the engine is running to check the TPS isn't "leaking" voltage. The throttle stop should not need to be adjusted.
 
Who wired it?
What ECU number / pin configuration?
Series one or series two motor?
What fuel pump?
What fuel pressure is it running at?
Does it have a check light?
Does it bring up any Check codes?
Has it had a diagnostic connector wired and has it had a scanner put over it?
Can you take a couple of photos of the engine bay and post them up so we can see if there is anything basic connected incorrectly on the motor.
Have you done a compression test?
Have you checked over the ignition system?
Have you checked for air leaks?
Have you checked the ignition timing? at idle? and revs?
Does it start if some engine start is added when cold?




There is only one way to set up the TPS correctly. I use the scanner to get the TP setting to 0 and the idle switch on at idle and switching off with the throttle plate slightly opened. This can be done manually. I do it using a .25mm feeler gauge under the "true" throttle stop (its under the throttle body) and set the idle switch off and check it goes on when the feeler gauge is removed. I then check it with a multimeter when the engine is running to check the TPS isn't "leaking" voltage. The throttle stop should not need to be adjusted.

hi

yes other problem is all sorted out. this is the only problem i have now that i know of.

ecu model was in other topic u read old afm with bolt-on intake
no codes or lights coming up
fuel pump is a walbro geniune 500hp job - doesnt change fault when blocking return
ignition system looks good - new rotors, cleaned caps, could do with some new plugs
does rev up cleanly, no smoke and no excessive fuel smell, no missing
havnt done compression check yet or tried engine start
have gone over vaccum hoses

also wats the round pot thingy under the tps? only asking cos it pushes against swing arm and when i push it i can hear air coming out

I will have to adjust the tps and stops back to factory spots again

IMG01906-20111001-0937.jpg
IMG01907-20111001-0937.jpg
SDC12278.jpg

cheers john
 
can u take a pic of the intake to the air flow meter
have had issues with customers cars if intake plumbing is not right
it cannot be a 45 degree ebnd or similar with a slight restriction
hard to explain but ive fixed 5 cars with poor intakes
 
Im back at work today so maybe you could give me a call. I have a fair idea of what the couple of most likely problems. I will charge but not too much as you have brought parts off me. Cheers
 
sideshow - there is nothing on intake of afm at this stage so dont think its that - still trying to work out how to get a snorkel fitted

cheers.

gloverman - will give u a ring in the few days as ur prob falt out anyway with new year

cheers
 
ok cool
just try not to have a restrictive flow right near the air flow meter
as i have had it cause issues
anyway speak to kelvin as he should be able to help
 
Thats fine. Im planning on not being finished on the workshop floor and back into office work on Friday so then would be good. Cheers
 


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