1UZ into Hilux on 80series Chassis

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

bimbo

New Member
G'day
I have been lurking here for a while planning my next build and have a few questions but first I will give you an idea of what I am planning. My critera for this build where to be a Hilux dual cab :D, be great off road, and be comfortable enough to take the misses and kidlet on weekend trips away camping, have enough power on the highway to actually overtake someone without needing a 500m long runup like I do in my 2.8L diesel hilux.

So the plan I have come up with that also fits easiest into the New South Wales (Australian state) rules is to get an 80 series landcruiser chassis with diffs and suspension etc. This will mean that the suspension will all be off the shelf items. Because I also want a hilux a 2wd hilux body (cheaper than buying a 4wd) will be mounted onto of the chassis. Bonus of this is that I also end up with diffs that are approx 6inches/150mm wider than the standard diffs which will make it more stable off road.

The reason I have been lurking here for a while is I would like to fit the 1uz as it is a great fit in the hilux engine bay as well as being a great performer, and being toyota keeps it all in the family and look factory fitted.

Now I have a few questions
1. I need to run a landcruiser transfer case which has an offset rear drive shaft. The 100 or 105 series landcruiser came out with a r series box mated to a landcruiser transfer case. Would something like this be the best box to run or would a H series (physically much bigger box I believe) gearbox which seem to be much more common but have no idea if I can get a bellhousing to the 1uz
2. If I went the R series box from a 100/105 cruiser which are originally bolted to a 2uz does the bellhousing bolt to a 1uz?

I am sure that there will be far more questions

Cheers
James
 
Have you considered a Toyota Surf? More capable off road than what you'd believe, like the Lux (which is much the same thing but doesn't have all of the nice fruit) the UZ is an easy fit and quite common in all states. This said there is a way of doing them that keeps the COG low. I mean my UZ Surf goes everywhere that I want it to go without a problem and even tows everything that I want it to without question.. You can go as wider track as you want but if YOU the driver does something wrong it don't matter what you are driving it is going to "lie down for a sleep".

There are ways around everything but unless you have an unlimited budget the best way is the K.I.S.S approach so with what you have proposed you are going to have what is an ICV (Individually Constructed Vehicle) so NCOP (National Codes Of Practice) and then ADRs will apply. I strongly suggest that rather than read thru the various forums to see what others have done (which is a great idea) you'd be best to contact the tech section of the RTA and find an engineer then have a chat. Why coz you're going to be making mods to the chassis to get the cab to fit and so on. Then you will be told what you can and cannot do.

Strangely enough this exact discussion was had over a beer an hour or two prior to this post.

Oh the H series box aint that strong and the bell for that from the 2U is a two piece and is bigger than what you think so using a 'Lux cab will require mods to the trans tunnel. R series is what you want and think LJ78 Bundy or LJ/KZJ78 Prado and the best place to find one of those is NZ, even then they're pretty thin on the ground.

Not trying to take the "wind out of your sails" so to speak, But I just think that your way of going about it will cost you a lot more in the long term. Personally were I to base a build on an 80 series chassis it would have something a lot bigger than a 1UZ in it
 
There are ways around everything but unless you have an unlimited budget the best way is the K.I.S.S approach so with what you have proposed you are going to have what is an ICV (Individually Constructed Vehicle) so NCOP (National Codes Of Practice) and then ADRs will apply. I strongly suggest that rather than read thru the various forums to see what others have done (which is a great idea) you'd be best to contact the tech section of the RTA and find an engineer then have a chat. Why coz you're going to be making mods to the chassis to get the cab to fit and so on. Then you will be told what you can and cannot do.

This all started out cause I was going to put coils under a hilux, 80 series axels was a good option as they are wider and stronger than the hilux. After speaking with the engineer (one of the best in NSW IMO) it is actually easier to jump through all the hoops using the full 80 chassis and doing a body swap that it is to get the diffs and coils engineeres.

In NSW at least - not sure about other states chassis swaps are registered as whatever the chassis is. ie this would be registered as a modified 80 sereis. There are rules about bringing the body up to the same ADR as the chassis but if the body is newer it still has to comply with the rules for its year of manufacture. In this case as the body and chassis are from roughly the same years it doesn't make much differance. 1UZ was no issues at all other than possibly requiring an emissions test.

Welding the the chassis is ok but has to be done in certain ways. I am able to change the body mounts on the chassis as long as they are mounted in such a way that they don't cause stress on the chassis - I am just planning on removing the original chassis mounting points and modify them to fit where I want then reweld. Engineer says I can modify the chassis mounts or body mounts, doesn't matter.

I have considered other cars as a base but say with a surf i would need to do the ute chop (I really need a ute) then I would still need to swap the engine and would prefer to do sas as well so costs are getting right up there with what i am planing. Also looked at buying a full 80 and chopping it but would cost more than I am willing to spend to buy a decent one. BTW I am looking at spending around 12K on this build and will basically doing it all myself. I am just trying to work out the exact details so that I can scoure ebay/trading post/wrecker to get everything I need at the best prices. Plus according to the misses I have a long list of jobs to do before I start playing with a new car.

Back on the gearboxes I was under the impression that the H sereis of boxes was stronger than the R series which is why they are behind the bigger turbo diesel engines? I have seen that the bellhousing on the 2uz is a 2 piece jobby. How much bigger is the bellhousing, I am not adverse to modifying the trans tunnel as long as it is ok with the engineer but would prefer not to as it will be something else I have to modify. However there are plenty of kits out there to mount the r 151 to 1uz just not sure what flywheel ans clutch to use as everyone seems to use something differant. I want to use something common so that down the track changing the clutch is off the shelf and instock parts.

Cheers
James
 
Still looking for ideas. I have also been checking out the option of using a gq patrol chassis as the diffs are the same offset as the hilux which would make it much easier to set up transfer cases on a r series gearbox. Also the chassis/wheelbase is a bit over 100mm longer which will make the body not such a tight fit. After checking ebay it seems that I can buy a whole patrol wagon far cheaper than an 80 series.
 
Still looking for ideas. I have also been checking out the option of using a gq patrol chassis as the diffs are the same offset as the hilux which would make it much easier to set up transfer cases on a r series gearbox. Also the chassis/wheelbase is a bit over 100mm longer which will make the body not such a tight fit. After checking ebay it seems that I can buy a whole patrol wagon far cheaper than an 80 series.

I am undertaking almost the identical conversion as you are. I have a patrol rolling chassis that I am putting a dual cab Hilux body on with 1uz, auto, twin transfer case and after it's all engineered will be putting a supercharger on.
I went with the patrol chassis because it's 1. Cheaper to buy 2. Slightly stronger diffs 3. Rear diff is in the middle. 4. Longer wheelbase.
Basically the body will be sat as low as possible with clearance for 35's with gaurds cut as necessary. Springs will be only 2". I'm after that tuff wide stance that is both comfortable as a hardcore truck and tourer. I also have a 145ltr long range tank that will be positioned high up in the chassis.
 
Great (or simple) minds think alike, it is great to hear I am on the only one crazy enough to think up ideas like this and you have chosen if for pretty much the saem reasons. I am also looking at cheaper blower options and will see how the car goes once up and running without but if I feel it needs a bit more pole then I will go a blower of some description.

I am still waiting for my engineer to get back from holiday so I can finalise things then start buying parts. I am planning on having this done by september/october which gives me a bit over 6 months to get it done.

Make sure you keep us updated on how your project is going - it will be interesting to see how we both tackle the inevidable issues that come up

Cheers
James
 
looking to do the 1uz swap on 4runner but getting the run around from
engineer in tamworth. his lacky keeps telling me he,ll talk to him
and advise
i,ve rung back 4 times now, still nothing. this guys a knob.
who are you using?
 
Great (or simple) minds think alike, it is great to hear I am on the only one crazy enough to think up ideas like this and you have chosen if for pretty much the saem reasons. I am also looking at cheaper blower options and will see how the car goes once up and running without but if I feel it needs a bit more pole then I will go a blower of some description.

I am still waiting for my engineer to get back from holiday so I can finalise things then start buying parts. I am planning on having this done by september/october which gives me a bit over 6 months to get it done.

Make sure you keep us updated on how your project is going - it will be interesting to see how we both tackle the inevidable issues that come up

Cheers
James

Ill go with "great" minds haha
Yeah no worries will keep you updated. I have pretty much all the parts except the wiring loom. Will be getting sideshow to do that soon.

Cheers Liam
 
looking to do the 1uz swap on 4runner but getting the run around from
engineer in tamworth. his lacky keeps telling me he,ll talk to him
and advise
i,ve rung back 4 times now, still nothing. this guys a knob.
who are you using?

I am using a guy called Athol Mullen in Newcastle, he is fairly pedantic but know his stuff and even though I may not be able to do everything I want I know I will end up with a car that is 100% road legal and won't have any trouble with the plod or more importantly insurance.

I know that in NSW the system for engineering cars has changed at the beginning of the year and existing engineers have to sign up to the new system. My engineer was having trouble with getting insurance that complied with the new RTA stuff hence why he is still on 'holidays' so you engineer may be going through the same deal. Just keep pestering them and asking questions. I imagine that they get alot of people ringing up asking if they can put a blown 454ci engine into their VK commo etc just wasting the engineers time

Cheers
James
 
thanks James
i,ve heard of Athol somewhere in the past.
i,m much the same, want it done 100% right. half assed things in the past
and only ends up costing more if you have to do it twice.

the bloke at tamworth is on the newest list of certifiers.

think the way to check is on vsccs number 1. updated regular now.

bloke at hexham said he should be listed as pc4 pc5 soon.

changed my mind 3 or more times for manual or auto swap.

computors make things hard compared to old days .

thinking a340e converted to a340f change xmember and shafts to 4cyl auto.

running factory ecu , manual conversion gear is 1700 and auto would have better ratios, not so short in 1st. 30% o/drive not 15%.

look forward to watching your progress, make me more eager to start mine.
 
I would definatly talk to Athol then, he has certified a few 1uz's into hilux's and 4 runners and he said it is no problems to pass, didn't even need to upgrade brakes from memory.

I am still uming and arhing about manual or auto. I really want manual but it is much cheaper and easier to go auto. I am going to try and get a chassis with the patrol manual and see how it fits in the hilux trans tunnel and go from there.

Sounds like there are a few 1uz conversions getting around newcastle with a few more to come.

Cheers
James
 
yeah , the price of converting your own r150f box to a 1uz is high.

missed a 93 sc400 for sale at hornsby today. too late.

1500 whole car . new alt pwr str radiator.

would have been worth alook.

got quoted $450 off auto trans place to turn my lexus box into 4x4 box if i supply 4wd ext hsg or complete 4wd box.

seems like a good way to go. auto smooth as in sand.
 
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came down to sydney for afew days to wire up 2 1hdtes into a 100 series
and an 80 series
100 series was manual
80 series was 5 speed auto
the 80 series is abit later motor and goes pretty good
feels better than the manual 1hdte
they run 12 psi thru these and sometime sup to 15 or 17 psi
next job is to figure out if the 200 series twin turbo v8 can work in an ealry cruiser
 
missed a 93 sc400 for sale at hornsby today. too late.

1500 whole car . new alt pwr str radiator.

Yeah, just have to keep an eye out - there was awhole engine and loom ecu and auto that didn't sell on ebay in Mayfield. Also seen plenty of ls400 go for around 2K
 
yeah the early bird gets the worm.

the one at mayfield looked incomplete if it,s the one on ebay for under a grand.

there,s a vvti 1/2 cut at sss sydney, tempting but high k,s and salty looking.

keep doing the daily checks till something decent comes up.

leakdown test and comp test on running donk preffered.

not 100% sure if a650e can be converted yet.

morre and more homework.

have a good weekend.
 


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