1uz igniton map screenshots wanted.

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Mr2turbo

New Member
Hi,

I'm up running with my 1UZF(t)E running megasquirt extra and toyota igniton.
The engine is the early model crown engine and it got it's breathing help from a Holset HX35...

But it seems like I'm running way to reatrded igniton timing, and would really appreciate to just take a look at anyone else's tuned igniton maps. I'm going to the dyno some few weeks from now and just want to be a bit prepaired and have a map that I can start to work with to get the engine running safe and to gain some fuel efficiency.

Here's my igniton map. Appreciate any help! :D
 
do you have a wideband ? if not get one

then please make yourself up a set of det cans (copper pipe about 10cm long with a flattened end bolted to the engine block, slip some silicone tube over the end of this copper pipe - snug fit is best - run the pipe to the interior of the car without folding it - then put the other end of the pipe into the ear piece of a some ear defenders / protectors) then you can hear when you have too much ign timing - by hearing the detonation

the big trick is to get the AFR stable and correct based on fuel octane / temps / boost etc

so to start with aim for an air fuel ratio of 11:1 on the wideband

then in the various zones add timing a degree at a time until you hear detonation - det sounds like "sparks" or "arcing" to most people - then back the timing off 3 degrees or so and move to the next zone - dont worry so much about the actual timing values - aim for no noise in the ear
then once the timing is "safe" you can add fuel / remove fuel to make the pwoer and then adjust the timing - get the fuelling right - get the timing safe and then adjust there - the trick is little change at a time and save often with different names
once you get this right you will actually be amazed how lean you can go and still remain safe and powerful - also you will often find that adding boost doesnt add as much power - less is often more with boost - keep the boost sensible and tune sensibly
 
Yeah, your map does look retarded in a lot of areas

3barboost has stated it pretty well.

Along with the wideband as 3bar had mentioned, an EGT guage is very handy to have too when tuning, especially on a turbo car. Some times its a juggling act between AFR and timing to keep the EGT's in an acceptable range. Tomuch retard and EGT's will skyrocket. To high of EGT's will kill a high dollar turbo or any turbo for that matter in short order.

A couple of thing to add also is typically you want max (full) advance by 3000rpm and carry it through till redline so in your case, by the 2800rpm colum in the 100kpa row and somewhere in the low to mid 30 deg range. Lower manifold pressures usually have more advance and higher pressure ranges usually have less advance. Another thing to note is that detonation is most likely to accure in the same RPM range and peak torque, not peak power being that BMEP (Brake Means Effective Pressure) is at its highest in this same range. As torque starts to fall, advance can be added to help slow the drop rate of the torque and thus boosting top end power a bit.

From a drivability and economy standpoint, most engines like a noticable more amount advance in the cruising RPM and manifold pressure ranges then what the 100kpa row would typically have for the same given RPM ranges.

The key thing though like 3bar stated is start low and work your way up. A dyno tuning session started with not enough advance will not damage a turbo as fast a to much advance will kill a motor. It only takes one good hit of detonation to kill a motor.
 
Although not for a 1uz, but here is a screen shot of a turbo'd honda that I tuned last weekend just to give you an idea as to what a well tuned ign map should look like.

Side note, the RPM range is vertical and the manifold pressure range is across the top just so you dont get confused.
 


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