1uz-fe trimming

[Mr_monkey]

Hi guys
The 1uz-fe is quite a long engine and im wondering how much of its length can be trimmed back though removing the water pump/varicam/PS pump etc + slim pullys?

Would like to put the engine into a 1990 turbo hardtop mr2 and things are made much easier if I dont have to move the gearbox to make it fit. I ideally need to remove about 6".

Many thanks,

nathan.

 

[Zuffen]

The water pump is integral to the Cam belt drive and cannot be removed or altered.

The best uou could hope to do is reduce the length of the fan idler. Depending on which version of the engine you ahve you may be able to save 20-25mm (about 1") by playing witht he fan idler/hydraulic pump (not the water pump)

Getting rid of the viscous coupling and fan is good for around 100mm. (4")

 

[Mr_monkey]

Thanks zuffen

Looks like we are going to have to move the gearbox sideways a few inches to make it fit. Means we need custom axles/gearbox mounts :-( . Oh well.

Ive been told that these engines have "varicam" vvti? possible to remove this also to reduce length?

Many thanks,
Nathan.

 

[Zuffen]

Mr Monkey,

Whats the engine going in?

Moving the gearbox suggests suggests the engine is east/west so it is either mid engined or a very scary front wheel drive.

The VVTi is all contained within the cam box's (and driven by the ECU) so doesn't add to the external dimensions.

Only very late model engines have VVTi.

 

[Mr_monkey]

SW20 mr2 ( 1990 turbo hardtop).

I have been in discussion with a few experienced guys about this. I should be able to remove all acc belts/pulleys from the front end of the engine and move the alternator to the back where it could be driven by an extension off one of the cams.

A viscous clutch would replace the alternator pully to reduce the load put on the cam/cambelt.

Any ideas?

Thanks dude,
Nathan.

 

[Cobolt]

One doesn´t want to add to camload at the end of the cam.. that will result in cam twisting and timing problems on last cylinders.

 

[Mr_monkey]

Thanks Cobolt. That all makes alot of sense. Any ideas on relocating the alt?

-nathan

 

[Cobolt]

You could always rebuild the whole front end of the engine, totally new one-belt cog-drive to all moving parts and maby use an axle to extend the possibiltys of alternator placement, perhaps over the gearbox?

Waterpump, servopump, ac etc is also possible to relocate this way, but these three is also possible to swap for upgrade components with electrical drive.

Another good thing to save bulk and weight, is a combined starter/alternator, (don´t know if that´s already fitted to the various engines)

 

[Lambo]

Reposition alternator

Hi Mr Monkey, I have the same problem with my project, i have a transfer case where my alternator should be, i have a rear sump, so it looks like i can mount it under the front of the sump inside and below the a/c pulley, so the belt will go down around the a/c then around the alt and up over the waterpump pulley.
Regards Lambo

 

[Zuffen]

Cobolt dynastarters tend to be used on boat engines to save weight but the output is lousy.

The limiting factor in any "trimming" is the harmonic balancer. This is around chassis rail height so once you sort that out the rest falls into place.

I think the alternator could be mounted 180degrees to normal (facing the rear of the engine) and hang it above and over the chassis rail. You don't need a serpentine belt to run it. You could use an old fashioned V belt to save space. Cobra has his alternator hanging out the front of the engine and it works great.

Have a look at this Website. it should give some insperation. Of course it may just talk you out of it.

http://www.v8mr2.com/index.asp

I keep an eye on all sorts of useless trivia!

 

[Mr_monkey]

Thanks guys.

Rob- Ive been following Bills v8 mk1 for a while now & know of him from the mr2 forums. Thankfully I have a little more room in the engine bay than he does.

I'll look into Dynastarters but I DO need some decent output as the SW20 mr2 uses an electric powersteering system that can be quite draining.

I do not require the PS or AC pump so that makes life a little easier.

Here are a few pics of the car
http://www.geocities.com/nathansmr2/sw20
Has the stock spoiler back on it now though.

I better get to work, thanks guys!

-nathan

 

[Peewee]

Run the alternator off the axle.

Won't charge at idle obviously, but just dont sit in traffic at night time!

 

[Zuffen]

Peewee has a good suggestion.

To get the alternator turning faster you could install a steel v belt pulley between the diff drive flange and the tailshaft. Mount the alternator off the diff cradle and use aV belt to drive it. It should spin around 3.5 times faster than an axle.

The only down side is you need to disconnect the tailshaft to change the V belt. But how often do you do that.

I don't see the alternator as being a length problem. More a width problem.

The harmonic balancer is the real item that sets the engines length.

 

[Mr_monkey]

I dont have a tailshaft. lol. The MR2 basically has its motor and gearbox in FWD config. only behind the driver rather than infront.

I'm looking into the boat alt/starter motor combo system. Surely, if they can keep a boat going they will be able to handle the headlights on the car?

My electro PS might be an issue. If it is, i'll just convert to a manual rack.

Many thanks,
Nathan.

 

[Cobolt]

I´ve heard of starter/alternators that can deliver approx 50Amps, it´s not much, but if you run N/A and don´t need bigger fuelpumps, more spark, boostcontrol and so on, it just might work. (keep of the stereo, heated seats and rearwindow, and don´t run the fan at max while using the floodlights.. )

Race only..

 

[Zuffen]

Sorry Nathan,

I was being more generic for everyones use not necessariy mid engined.

Peewee has the simplest answer.

 

[cacrawfo]

Hello,
Even if you can get enough taken off the front of the engine, how are you going to mate it to a Toyota FWD transmision? You could make an adaptor plate, but that still does not solve the next problem.... do you have room to pass the passenger side axle past the V8 engine? The Cadilac Northstar V8 is specifically packaged for FWD use, and the trans is mostly next to the engine, so it is very short and packaged for east-west layout.... The Lexus V8 is most definitely NOT packaged for transverse use...

Pictured is a MKII turbo E153 trans, and the 1UZ-FE.... how are you going to pass an axle past the bellhousing? You can start cutting I suppose, but that seems like too many hoops to jump through.... If you absolutely have to have it, I think widening the car would be the wiser choice....

Carl Crawford
www.speed-source.net

86' MR2 3SGTE
88' MR2 3.8 Supercharged

 

[Mr_monkey]

Very good points cacrawfo. Ive just pulled my deposit from an engine. . Guess i'll have to try and source a v6.

Thanks guys,
Nathan.

 

[Zuffen]

Have you thought about rotating the engine around the transaxle?

I rotated mine about 10degrees and it made life easy.

You have to think beyond the square. We're in territory no one has explored before.

 

[Mr_monkey]

The only way i'd be willing to go is backwards into the boot.... but that wouldnt chuck the offending part clear of the shaft. I dont want to hack into my firewall as all sorts or problems are created.

-nathan