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This units been out for a while now and was wondering whether, for a single turbo set up, the standard MSIII or the MSIII with MS3X expansion board is the better option. At present, either option looks to provide fantastic value for money given the $Aus.

The poor old W58 will have to just survive. I'm hoping that by getting progressive boost the shock to the box will be reduced. XR8tt - Ok, I understand what your saying. From what your suggesting, the unit from Real Street Performance fits the bill and the price is within budget. I will see...

Thanks. Does the flange size assist with the 'progressive' requirements I'm looking for or is it just a case of getting the gases to the turbo and letting it do its job. Additionally, I gather I'm aiming for a low A/R (.63) over slightly higher (.86) to ensure early boost. Is this the type...

AS the title indicates, I have a standard motor with a W58 transmission that I would like to keep because of space constraints. I'm sure some will say that certain destruction is guaranteed of one or both components, but this is not about high HP ratings, drifting or circuit racing. The car is...

As the title details I have one for sale. Unit is used and without the bearing. Comes with bleeder, 5/16 and 3/8 studs and 9 shims. Has new O-rings and is ready to go. Was used with W58 gearbox but will fit other boxes as well. $100 and its yours.

Ok, I see that. Do I just insert a "T" at the throttlebody end?

Have finally gotten around to seeing the engineer about my conversion and he's requested that the Volvo's charcoal cannister be re-installed. My question is, where or how do I connect the cannister to the motor??? Did these motors have something similar as I do not remember seeing any...

This thread shows exactly what has happened to my pressure plate. It is also causing an annoying squeak when the clutch is applied and released. I need to replace bearing but is there any advise on how to get the old bearing off and the new one back on without causing damage. PS: Just as a...

Well after the most annoying, solution sorting week, my driveability problems has finally been solved, and because I hate reading forums where there's no outcome to problems posted, here's mine. After niggling problems , leading to disasterous driving conditions, the one thing that has come...

Well after much discussion I had the carby guy check his meter and turns out it had a valve in the piping which upset the figures. (He hasn't stopped apologising.) Anyway new and more accurate figures are Ignition On - 34.8psi Idling or reving to 2500rpm - 33.4psi WOT - 43.5psi So...

Thanks for the response Sideshow. Do any other Toyota's have a similar reg? Specific 1UZFE parts are a pain to find locally. As for the gauge, its from a neighbouring carby shop so I would expect it to be reasonably accurate. As for black smoke, non has ever been evident. Will check reg and...

Had them cleaned today but they appeared to be ok on initial test. Will refit tomorrow so if this doesn't fix it next on the list are the 02 sensors, even though their not throwing up any codes. They have been replaced with universal 4 wire units so perhaps the ECU is not communicating with them...

Zuffen, my readings are of the fuel pump pressure before the fuel rail so the regulator should reduce things, and given the change in readings I am assuming the regulator is working. If pinching the return line makes it run better, that suggests that the increased pressure in the fuel rail is...

More research done. It appears that fuel may be the problem so I'm looking for confirmation that the fuel pump is operating properly before I next check the injectors. At idle fuel pressure is 60psi At wide open throttle pressure goes to 75psi With the return line pinched pressure goes to...

Will track down a coil tomorrow. Looks like I'll just have to start replacing things to check them off.

Ok, still poking around. Cleared all codes and went for a drive with the AFM disconnected, I can get almost the same crap drivability as when the problem occurs by itself. Before the mechanic cleaned it this was not the case as it would drive fine but not rev out. So the question is, does...

In order to fully and completely get to the bottom of this, I believe it is necessary to test each sensor individually whilst the car is running with the problem. Thing like TPS, AFM, O2 sensors, etc. I know they are not throwing up codes and the ECU can run properly after the battery is...

Strange doesn't cover the half of it. A replacement ECU is rarer than hen's teeth from my searching as its a 1995 model. Plenty for earlier years can be found but their not interchangeable. All the basic have been covered by me and the mechanic so we cannot progress with a clear idea of what...

The codes are for the two sub oxy sensors and the speed sensor. But these have no effect on the cars operation. This problem is from the last month or so and at its worst makes the car undriveable and dangerous. I am only assuming its the ECU as the problem can be overcome by disconnecting...

I have previously outlined my problems earlier under the title 'Loss of low speed smoothness' but I feel its gone beyond this. Background info, conversion using 95 SC400 motor, Supra W58, with uncut wiring and standard ECU. Run well for 18 months without problem. Has always had codes 27, 29...