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My current set up incorporates an in-tank Walbro GSS342 which supplys the standard 1UZFE fuel rail and pressure regulator, returning the unused fuel to the bottom of the tank. So far pretty normal. Originally my Volvo ran fuel injection and had a charcoal cannister with a return line to the...

Its been years since this thread's had any up-date and so was wondering if anyones tried or has been using one. I had my Volvo conversion dyno'd on the weekend and discovered how rich the motor runs in standard tune so I'm now looking at a value for money piggy back system to improve things.

Well, as of today, I can say the swap has been completed. So far, everything has worked as required and apart from two spark plug leads being around the wrong way, I must say I couldn't be happier. The motor is fantastic, the Supra box with short shifter works a treat and the exhaust is subtle...

Well, after half dismantling the motor to get the distributors caps off to swap them around, I looked at the front of the caps to see the cylinder numbers printed for easy reference. When I did the initial spark plug, leads and distributor cap replacement I had used a diagram of the spark plug...

Make that spark plugs No. 4 & 6. Can't read my own notes.

I did a bit of checking yesterday. Both distributors have spark and each spark plug lead is receiving spark. I removed the spark plugs (except No. 6 & 8 because their under the brake booster, but all plugs removed looked good and all injectors were clicking away nicely I think the problem...

For the past 11 months, this motor has sat idle but since completing the conversion and now getting the exhaust installed I have a 'miss'. I know the injectoers can sieze, and the plugs can foul (short running time whilst testing), but anything else I should check? Tomorrow starts with a...

There is probably a simple answer to this question. My motor came from a 96 Soarer and the PS reservoir was originally located next to the radiator but for my conversion I'm unsure where to put it in relation to the PS pump. Does the 5/8" feeder pipe from the reservoir have to be...

I'm also at that stage of getting an exhaust and getting it right in order to get the best out of the motor, keeping Mr Plod happy and getting the nod from the engineer. I'm interested in the position of the cats. Space in my swap doesn't allow me to bolt them directly to the standard manifold...

iViLe, glad to hear the radiator worked out. Hopefully you've cleaned up the wiring since I last saw the Gemini. As for a race, hmmmm, maybe after I put a turbo on mine to even things up. Since my last post I've completely re-wired the car using a 'Keep It Clean' universal loom, and I must say...

Well after a couple of weeks doing my homework and studying the Volvo wiring diagrams, I chose too bite the bullet and buy a 'Keep it Clean' universal wiring loom. I believe it's very similar to the 'ez wiring kit'. mmliljoker, your're correct about the size of the wires, they are a lot bigger...

Well, since starting this project last year, I've never heard this motor run, until today. After roughly wiring the motor and computer up with assistance from Sideshow, I turned the key and the motor sprang into life. What a relief.:haha: The projects been going a bit slower that planned due...

I've finally got to the stage of running the 1UZFE wiring from the engine bay into the cabin for connection to the computer and came to the conclusion that my project car (Volvo 242) seems to have twice as many wires under the dash than is really needed. Example; each light (headlamp, indicator...

Luck was on my side for a change. A brother-in-law had a banjo fitting left over from a Cressida overhaul he did some months ago which did the job perfectly. Unfortunately, he forgot to tell me about the it till the other day. Anyhow, onto the next problem.

Obviously there is a difference between the 1UZFE motors and their respective vacuum take off points. The attached photo shows the back of my manifold. The middle hole is the 12mm mentioned earlier and to the right is the fuel pressure regulator going to a "T" joiner to somewhere, possibly the...

litldv8, thanks but the only vacuum points I can see are a big one at the front that goes to the air intake just upstream from the MAF with a smaller one off the front to the power steering, one to each rocker cover and at the rear a small hose to the fuel regulator and somewhere unknown and...

I went out today to get a right angle, barbed fitting to connect the brake booster and heating system vaccum pipes to but was told none existed for the Lexus metric thread. This was from Enzed and Pirtek. If this is correct, how do you get another vaccum connection? I'm using the threaded...

Success!! Went with the welding. Just as well as there was enough loctite to keep it there for ever. Very tough to undo. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Tried the vice grips but no movement. Two nuts on top of each other are tightened together then when you try to undo the bottom one its meant to jam harder against the top one and loosen the bolt. Alas, no movement. No sure what a stud tool is so might go with the welding idea or another...

ToranaJudd, it's only $900. The other $50 is going to saving the black eyed, yellow spotted pink finch or something (keeping the greenies on side). Anyway, more money into my project. Yeh!