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If you fill the catch sank the coolant will only be drawn into the engine after the engine has heated and then cooled down. I fill it through the fill bolt at the thermostat and top up the catch tank so it has coolant to replace the air that will be purged out. give it a try.

I don't think you would notice any change. Don't forget our EPA has a nice $5,000 fine for cat removal. I put new 400 cell cats on each new build and sleep soundly knowing I won't get knocked off for it. Plenty of other stuff they can get me for but those fines are cheap.

Given the role of the waterpump in the cam drive I'd be inclined to leave it stock, in other words I'd be afraid to modify it in case it failed. I know the valves are safe but still a royal pain if it fails.

Search the Forum. There was a member many years ago (15 or more!) called Kdog who deciphered the Crown ECU pinnout. He was/is an electronics Guru and he built a controller for the transmission. Basically it was a bunch of relays that turned certain solenoids in the transmission on or off as...

You can chase all the capacity you want, unless you can make the heads flow 50% better you have an obstacle to any real performance gains. Years ago I ported a 1UZ until we were very close to striking water and it still flowed poorly.

Fix the known issues first then see how it runs. You may be surprised what the coolant temp sensor does. Very hard to fix any issue whilst the car has issues that should be sorted first.

In all honesty I think what you have should work well. No matter what you do you won't feel any difference. An exhaust bigger than what you have may in fact kill off torque and slow the car down. I have twin 3" exhaust on my standard 1UZ, only because it was once supercharged and it is short...

If you can't find a replacement take the hose to an hydraulic hose shop and they will make you a new one using your old ends. I've had it done for fuel lines and air-conditioning lines.

The ECU has to see spark before it will fire the injectors. It's a safety thing. If it won't fire with starter fluid it's definitely spark. Make sure the igniters are grounded to a good ground. Don't ask how I found out that was important. Check if you have spark at the coil leads. This...

You will need a flywheel, clutch plate, clutch pressure plate, clutch throw out bearing and a new spigot (centre) bearing for the end of the crankshaft. You will need to make either a new bellhousing to connect the engine to the gearbox or make an adaptor plate to join them. All of the items...

Just be aware the cost of an engine swap goes way beyond the cost of the engine. do some numbers and think what the following will cost. Engine Transmission Driveshaft Engine mounts Radiator Wiring Making the LS1 talk to the Toyota dash Exhaust If you can't do it all yourself get ready for a...

Things are getting exciting. I hope it goes as you planned.

You know the answer. Off with the manifold and take the starter out and have a look at it. Not a nice job, but it has to be done.

I've purchased gaskets from Toyota and Auto One.

As a supercharged 1UZ owner I would go turbo and save a heap of bother. I think a simple rebuild with a turbo or two would give you what you want without the heat issues,

Sorry for slow response, been away. If you used the same engine loom that was in the car and ECU it should run. I know there are different igniter modules between different models but if you keep all the 96 sensors, loom and igniters I can't see why it won't run. I'm guessing a missed ground...

To date no one seems to have done what you want. I have an additional sensor in my cooling system that tells me the temp and has for the last 15 years. Adding a temp sender isn't hard and worth it.

As best I/we know they interchange.

Did you swap the engine loom as well? If not I'd try that. Sounds like you have matched the ECU to the Sensors but what connects them isn't doing it's job, as it isnt the same as the original engine had.