1UZ doesn't start (igniter?/timing?)

[melvinmelvin]

now IGNITER again:

Do they perform any other tasks than guiding the ignition?

when looking at the front of the igniters;

from left to right the wire positions are marked; (the marking is at the back of the plug)

F T B EXT C

on one igniter the EXT position is blocked, rubber plug without hole for wire
on the other igniter the cable in the EXT position was cut off when I bought the mill

I take my tacho feed from position T, I cut the wire and spliced in my tacho feed wire.

As far as I gather, you say that the tacho feed is the EXT position?
Might try that next.


(talking about wire colours I don't think is meaningful, my colours don't match yours)

my best guess about my 1UZ is that it comes from a Toyota Celsior from after October 1994.

 

[melvinmelvin]

final rant for today;

I mentioned above that sunshine, rain and wind represent problems

another problem area is tape, electrical tape to sea wires/connections
just cannot find any good tape in Thailand, have been looking for years

I'm mostly using 3M tape.
A week or two after it has been applied it starts to open up, doesn't stick properly.
Guess that is a climate problem.

Where I come from, in northern Europe, we have something we call tar tape.
Extremely strong, a bit thicker than normal 3M tape and it is "infested" with tar.
Cannot find that kind of tape in Thailand.

Dunno about Australia and NZ,
where I come from lots of people use that tape.
In particular all ice hockey players and bandy (on ice) players.
They use that tape on their sticks to prevent the stick blades from splitting.

So, in addition to sunshine, rain and wind, I have a tape problem.

(rant off)

 

[Zuffen]

We call the tar tape self amalgamating tape.

Google it you may be able to get it off eBay.

 

[melvinmelvin]

We call the tar tape self amalgamating tape.

Google it you may be able to get it off eBay.

right, thanks.

btw, the UZ is running as it should do, again.
Got it flying yesterday, smooth as ever.

(and all my extensive and fancy cabling seems to work as planned)

 

[Zuffen]

Well done.

It must be one of the faster long tailed boats.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Well done.

It must be one of the faster long tailed boats.

Thanks.

yes, it is fast, very fast

my previous/first boat was good for 55-60 knots (depending a bit on humidity and air temperature) (same engine), fastest boat in Bangkok I reckon

my new boat is built with hardwood (and is a bit longer) and is heavier so top speed is presumably lower, say 50 knots and a wee bit

have had the fastest boat in Bangkok, fun, but am finished with that now
now I am more interested in keeping the boat in full plane at lower speeds
driving the boat at idling speed + a bit and in full plane is a peace of cake
driving at half planing speed is very very hard work and extremely uncomfortable

(the tail is about 4.5 meters long, when the boat is in full plane the boat and tail is well balanced, the fins on the tail keep the prop down in the water,
I can steer the boat with just 2 fingers without exerting power, comfortable.
driving at half planing speed, say 10-15 knots, is very hard, boat and shaft is not in balance resulting in the prop being driven upwards and out of the water,
I need to counteract that by using my thigh pressing the tiller/shaft upwards and the prop down in the water - very hard to say the least)

(with an anti-clock rotating prop you start of driving these boats sitting (sitting on a movable wooden box) sideways with your back to the port side of the boat and with your right foot
on a say 8-10 inch high small wooden box, regulating pressure on the tail with raising/lowering your right foot,
as the boat goes into plane you gradually shift your body so that you're facing forward and the foot box is no longer needed when boat and tail starts balancing)


if I could go in full plane at 15 knots I would be happy
guess I need to a play a bit with prop sizes and length of long tail and the size/angle of the fins on the aft part of the tail to achieve that

never a dull moment and little time for thumb rolling

 

[melvinmelvin]

Guess I shouldn't have said smooth as ever above. Didn't last long.

Been running fine for 3 days. Today, after a while, it suddenly stopped while idling.
Easy to start again but will not run below 850 rpm, runs fine at higher rpm.

Maybe fuel problem, maybe electrical - dunno.

Must test more in order to ascertain whether its a warm engine probolem or not.

At least I was right when I said never a dull moment.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Running smooth again.

Done what? Made some cable connections "stronger". Changed all spark plugs.
Now, runs as silk.

Re spark plugs, they were not clean, but not very dirty. New spark plugs made it!

Maybe the 1UZ is hungry for high quality sparks? Dunno.

I am using the following spark plugs; NGK BKR8EIX 2668, also called Iridium IX.

Is that a good choice? Or should I use different plugs?

(wouldn't mind a common rail mill)

 

[gloverman]

BKR8EIX are a very cold plug for a 1uz. If it was running high boost I might go that cold but in a stock engine I would be more around a 6 heat range in NGK. Most of the time I run the stock ND plugs with great results.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Ta,

as far as I know the original plug is DENSO K20R. Would that be a better choice, (for a stock engine)?

 

[gloverman]

I use PK20R11 for early celsior , PK20R for some soarer which is the platinum then in the gen 2 engines they run iridum so SK20R and SK20R11. Much better choice in my opinion. cheers

 

[melvinmelvin]

I use PK20R11 for early celsior , PK20R for some soarer which is the platinum then in the gen 2 engines they run iridum so SK20R and SK20R11. Much better choice in my opinion. cheers

Ta Gloverman,

and that is NGK plugs?

(My best guess as to the age of my mill is Toyota Celsior after October 1994 and before VVT.)

 

[gloverman]

That is Nippon denso plugs. If yours is Gen 2 then the SK20R or SK20R11. Being in a boat I would most likely go for the smaller gap.

 

[melvinmelvin]

thanks a lot,

off to Europe tomorrow morning so that would probably have to wait until I'm back

Why would a smaller gap be more suitable in a boat?

Boats always run uphill, even when planing, hard work pushing water
Fairly stable RPM, not so much variation

anyway, thanks

 

[gloverman]

you pretty much hit the nail on the head as to why I chose to run a small gap plug in boats. Due to the increased constant load they never really go into a lean cruise mode so constantly have increased demands on the ignition system. Ive done boats with big and small gaps and found the smaller gap ones worked better and ran nicer. Maybe more of a personal choice too.

 

[melvinmelvin]

That is Nippon denso plugs. If yours is Gen 2 then the SK20R or SK20R11. Being in a boat I would most likely go for the smaller gap.

Right. My normal parts dealer in BKK didn't have SK20R11, but can get them from Toyota in 2 days. SK20R he could not get hold of at all.

Have spent some time on www today reading up on plugs etc.
If I understand the ND legends correctly the SK20R11 will have a 1.1 mm gap whilst the SK20R will have a 0.8 mm gap.

on www, dealers, retailers, catalogues etc are all about SK20R11. just can't find SK20R anywhere.

 

[gloverman]

Sk20r-11 will still be perfectly fine.

 

[melvinmelvin]

would think so, since it does manage to run rather smooth on all cylinders

 

[melvinmelvin]

well, I don't have any engine fuse box and don't have any starter relay either, unless you mean the solenoid/magnetic thingie on the starter itself

 

[melvinmelvin]

Most of the time yes. However, it does happen that the solenoid does not click.
The starter is new, the flywheel is old, 20+ years. That might be part of the cause for non-clicks, dunno.

Also, the new starter is one "model" older than the engine. However, when the new starter was installed both
the new one and the old one were inspected in detail. No differences between the two that might cause problems were detected.

Its challenging buying spare parts for an engine when you don't know car model and don't know year of make.

(my mistake of course, and my laziness, didn't bother digging out the old starter and look at the part number before ordering the replacement)
(the old starter could still be used with some difficulty)
(and its quite a job to dig out the starter on a 1UZ that is bobbing up and down and sideways rather than keeping still in a workshop/garage)


It was said somewhere on this forum that the spark plug leads (or possibly the plugs in the end) contains the "year".
I have 3 set of leads. The set on the engine when it was bought, most likely the original leads. One set I bought from a scrapyard.
And one brand new set that I bought from a Toyota shop in the UK.
I have been over these 3 sets with magnifying glass several times. Just cannot detect anything that looks like a "year".